acclimating fish

Discussion in 'New To The Hobby' started by warlord, Jun 7, 2012.

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  1. warlord

    warlord Bristle Worm

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    Ive heard a bunch of different ways to do itbut dont know whats best.

    So what do you guys think is the best way to do it
     
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  3. anb

    anb Coral Banded Shrimp

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    drip line IMO
     
  4. warlord

    warlord Bristle Worm

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    Ok how long should i let the drip lime go b4 adding him to the tank
     
  5. cosmo

    cosmo Giant Squid

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    depends on the fish and how ya got it, local LFS or online. Generally IMO, if ya got it from a local LFS and it has similar salinity, a 30 minute temp acclimation with a few water swaps seems plenty, if ordered online a slightly longer but earlier water swap seems good.
    I like vinny's thread about this;
    http://www.3reef.com/forums/new-hobby/simple-rules-avoid-ich-126326.html
     
  6. warlord

    warlord Bristle Worm

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  7. warlord

    warlord Bristle Worm

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    I live 1.2 miles from my LFS so as long as the sg is pretty close i wont have to aclimate as much right?
     
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  9. Matty1551

    Matty1551 Astrea Snail

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    I found most of my livestock died early on when I got into this hobby. I just floated the bag and would add a cup of water every 10 min.

    Since switching to a 1hr drip I've only lost 1 fish. With the prices of fish I see it as being worth a little extra work to ensure my specimen survives.
     
  10. DevinH

    DevinH Montipora Capricornis

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    You all are not accounting what happens when the fish poops.

    During shipment, PH lowers, which in turn makes the ammonia LESS lethal. When you add your high PH water to that bag, your increasing the ammonia lethality. IMO, fish that are received via shipping should be only floated then put into the tank
     
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  11. Corailline

    Corailline Super Moderator

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    It is a dry heat, yeah right !

    pH lowers secondary to the metabolism of the fish, creation of CO2, consumption of O2, metabolic waste ammonia which is an acid which moves your pH down. The lower or more acidic pH is a direct result of the ammonia and waste of the fish.

    You then open the bag, fresh O2 rushes in, CO2 out and the pH moves back up to a more stable pH but probably not that matching the display water. You add an ammonia binder or similar product and bring the pH closer to the displays pH there by avoiding stress from the sudden swing.

    JM2C
     
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  12. inwall75

    inwall75 Giant Squid

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    Great post!

    The Ammonium/Ammonia continuum is controlled by your pH level. You don't even have to add your water to the bag to get this result. When you open the bag, built up CO2 will off-gas which will cause pH to raise. Even taking the bag out of the styrofoam container and exposing it to light without opening it will cause pH to rise a little. (Hint: Float the bag without the tank lights on).

    I'm surprised no one has mentioned adding a drop or two of Prime or AmQuel to the acclimation container. When dripping, make sure that when you are done make sure pH matches, temperature matches, and SG matches. Don't assume your LFS has their SG at 1.025~1.026. Most of my store is at normal SG. However, the WC angels and butterflies are at 1.019. (This isn't a big deal because if someone buys more than one fish and one is coming out of the other system we tell them they can't be dripped together. However, if you are in this hobby, you likely have a hydrometer or refractometer....use it ;))