Almost Quit . . .

+1 on this

I'd look into a turf scrubber and get on a routine of water changes
Also if if was in your shoes I'd looking to ozone
For under 350 you can get one going and that alone would help a ton
But ozone is a very complex yet simple thing..
Look in to it buddy and good luck

 

My dad was in the same spot. However he got some biopellets and now his nitrates are in the 30's last time I checked. I use biopellets too they work well.

 

Hey I just read the very first post and none of the responses. Sorry if you have heard this before. IMHO...a deep sand bed is a nitrate hotspot. (Okay stop throwing things at me people). I have a 1.5 inch sand bed in my 125 and I run 0 nitrates at all times. I do not have micro algae issues and never have. People said I would have issues when I first set it up but I dont. Get a few emerald crabs. They LOVE bubble algaes! I once bought a piece of live rock that had green bubble algae on it. I threw it in my tank anyways. Within two days the emeralds mowed it down to nothing.

 

Yea just got my bio pellets rolling. gonna see what they do.

 

Turf Scrubber, Ozone, BioPellets - eech . . . I like the philosophy of more biology, less technology but I'm running out of room in the cabinet already!

I'll try to get tests verified soon . . . did them again yesterday - basically the same - Mg test is pissing me off. Got reliable tests the first time and now the color won't change from dark purple to blue/grey at all - put in all 1ml of tritant. (Salifert)

James - nice worm story, great looking pieces in your tank! congrats! What Camera/Lens do you use for your shots?

 

If I recall correctly 1ml = 1500 ppm. You may have raised your mg above 1ml using additives. Try a second syringe full and see of the color changes. You can calculate the ppm.

Jack

 

Yeah, ok . . . guess i was reading the directions backwards, thinking reading was zero when all of 1ml tritant didn't change the color. Just took a reading and the last drop changed it to blue. So, i guess i overdid it and i'm at 1500 Mg. Not harmful, right? Planning on a water change this weekend, so that should get it down a bit. Thanks for the tip TG

 

Oh I know what ya mean about running out of room. I have a corner tank there is no more room now after adding another reactor under the tank. Guess will see how the bio pellets do my biggest problem is the red turf so gonna reduce the water changes to 5-7% for the 8 weeks that is says it needs to get that bacteria rolling and see what happens. Maybe that was it the fact that the trace was making the algae go wild will see.

 

It' unclear that high mag is not harmeful, but short term dosn't seem to cause major damage. May get some snails drunk LOL.

That would explain the high ca and alk though, those levels would not be possible withought high mag.

I don't think you need tons of equipment. Personally, for filtration, i have a protein skimmer, GAC, vodka/vinager, GFO and a good CUC. I feed 4-5 times per day and have no detectable nitrates, phosphates or nuissance algae.


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BTW,
The following will all either directly or indirectly help keep nitrates down

-Efficient Protein skimming- Keep protein skimmer clean and use a good one.
-Clean water source- RO/DI water - make sure output is 0 tds.
-harvest macro algae in fuge
-feed smaller amounts more, rather than lots less often.
-keep amount fed consistent to maintain steady biomass rather than allow fluctuating biomass.
-good cleanup crew
-Run carbon and GFO.
-Keep filters clean - remove detritus
-Keep substrate clean of detritus.
-Avoid dead spots, make sure there is flow
-Probably best to avoid any biofilter other than sand and LR.
-Remote deep sand bed
-more advanced and may be much more risky, but carbon dosing can be effective.


Also, I would suggest looking at this article.
Aquarium Chemistry: Nitrate in the Reef Aquarium — Advanced Aquarist's Online Magazine