Condy was hidden?

Discussion in 'Inverts' started by leighton1245, Oct 30, 2010.

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  1. leighton1245

    leighton1245 Horrid Stonefish

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    I feed the anenome about every other day sometimes every 2 days just when I see his mouth open. here is also a link to the excat light setup I have. AquaticLife LLC | Premium Marine Aquarium Products and the bulbs came with the light so maybe the bulbs are not powerful enough. Ill go buy some more rock today and a second powerhead I have a dead spot in my tank.
     
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  3. steve wright

    steve wright Super Moderator

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    It looks like a decent fixture to me, but I cant find the spec of the lamps being used
    so that would concern me, and I would want to go for brand named lamps I recognise (ATI, Geisseman )

    I cant see the light unit in your pictures, is it suspended above the tank or is it resting on the tank (how close are the lamps to the water surface

    one thing I did notice on the 2nd look was you seem to have an airstone or bubbler in the tank and the Korallia is blowing those bubbles towards the nem in the picture
    it may be a to much direct flow issue thats caused it to move

    also the bubbles will pop at the water surface and deposit salt particles on your clear perspex cover or on the lamps if you dont have a cover
    this will also reduce amount of available light if you dont clean them regular

    Steve
     
  4. leighton1245

    leighton1245 Horrid Stonefish

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    The bulbs say aqutic life 24w on them so IDK maybe i need to buy new ones. I turned the air stone down so maybe that will help. What bulb would you reccomend? I do have a cover on my tank and clear lens on my light also. Thanks for the help still new at this
     

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  5. steve wright

    steve wright Super Moderator

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    Thats much clearer picture leighton

    as Corailline suspected , that nem is probably to far away from that light unit hence its very pale

    increasing the rock stack (use base rock so as to avoid any cycle issues)
    also if you can remove the legs on the canopy, you will be bringing the light about 4 inches closer to the water surface and that will help also

    lamps - I dont know for a fact there is anything wrong with what you have

    I would lower the canopy and add more rock under the rock the nem is on now just lift that rock out of the way, create a new stable stack and add that rock with the nem on on top of the new stack (dont try and pry nem off rock and then place it on top of new rock you add)

    Steve
     
  6. leighton1245

    leighton1245 Horrid Stonefish

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    Thanks Steve, what is base rock how does it differ from the rock i have? Ill take the legs off now. Im also buying a new tank that isnt as tall so i dont have to buy a MH light. Also this is where the animal has moved to just since i took the pictures just a few hours ago.
     

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  7. gazog

    gazog Kole Tang

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    His lighting is a basic 4 bulb - 24" or 24/28 watt fixture with 2 10,000 k and 2 Super blue Antic bulbs. Its one of the newer lights on on the market and IMO should be enough for a Condy. Condy's do not require nearly as much light and not nearly as pristine water conditions as RBTA's do. Condy's live in water s from 1 to 90" deep in the wild, which means that they naturally do not get allot of light once they are below 20 to 30 feet below the surface. The ones collected from the lower depths are usually lighter in color simular to yours

    And if "his arms were turning brown" he isn't bleaching, to me is sounds like it is regaining its normal color. Most condy's depending on where they are collected from are either Pink and white or Purple and white with the tips of the arms getting darker as they come to an end. From the sounds of it yours is doing fine.

    Condy's will close up occasionally and you should not be alarmed at this behavior. I agree about not moving them but if you have to you did it the right way thats for sure. Doing it that way there is almost no possibility of hurting them becasue they let loose by them selves.

    Also I agree about the feeding, I used to feed mine at least once a week as long as they would take it. I used to feed mine whole shrimp or pieces of fresh fish. There are some that I know that like to feed theirs live foods, like goldfish and such which is not good becasue gold fish do not contain the proper oils and vitamins that Nem's require.
     
    Last edited: Oct 30, 2010
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  9. steve wright

    steve wright Super Moderator

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    base rock , is just rock thats dry, and not in water when you purchase it
    its basically clean and free of organic life, so you should not get much, if any die off from that type of rock and thus you avoid a secondary ammonia/ Nitrite spike

    what you dont want is uncured live rock at this stage
    uncured live rock is rock thats come from water, is kept in water and has any number of living things on it, some of which will die when introduced to your tank and this decaying organic matter, can adversely effect your water quality

    check out reef cleaners and Marco rocks sites - they both have base rock
    but your LFS will probably have it also

    Steve
     
  10. leighton1245

    leighton1245 Horrid Stonefish

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    Very informative thank you. That might be the reason my LTA didnt make it, I heard the lighting for LTA's is alot like BTA's?
     
  11. Corailline

    Corailline Super Moderator

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    It is a dry heat, yeah right !
    You may have had problems with the previous anemone secondary to the age of your system.

    You can not go wrong with the addition of more live rock. Too much light, the anemone can take refuge from it, too little light the anemone can find an area of more intense lighting.

    BTA's are good anemones for a first anemone. They tolerate newer systems and the fluctuations found in new systems. LTA are much more sensitive to those changes.
     
  12. gazog

    gazog Kole Tang

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    Yes, Long tentacle anemone's require tons of light and very pristine water conditions to survive.

    Although Corailline statement that BTA's will tolerate more system fluctuations that LT's is correct I have to disagree that they are good first Nem's, mostly because BTA's will eventually succumb to bad conditions if not taken care of.

    Condy's are considered good starter nem's because they will survive in less than optimal lighting and water conditions. Notice I said survive and not thrive, if they have proper water and above average lighting they will thrive.