cyano

Discussion in 'ASAP' started by ferretfish, Sep 10, 2011.

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  1. ferretfish

    ferretfish Sea Dragon

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    how do you get ride of cyano
     
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  3. sticksmith23

    sticksmith23 Giant Squid

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  4. dowtish

    dowtish Horrid Stonefish

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    cyano is a bacteria, and it comes into the tank when there is a bacterial imbalance. bio pellots don't necessarily remove cyano. They remove nitrates and phosphates which other nuisance algae can then grow. green hair etc.

    You should try this
    Microbe-Lift.com :: Special Blend
     
  5. m2434

    m2434 Giant Squid

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    Generally it is like algae, but not as reliant on nitrate. For the most part, it is dependent on phosphate. Using large quantities of GFO, such as phosban, Bulk Reef Supply GFO, Rowaphos etc... will limit it significantly. In addition, water changes, with pure RO/DI water help. Removing detritus and any other forms of organic nutrients that it can feed on is very helpful. Running Granular Activated Carbon GAC is helpful for this reason. Flow to keep detritus from settling is good. Also, often it doesn't go away on it's own because it can store nutrients, so, once you have done the above, you may need to siphon it out, or even turn off the lights completely for a few days to kill off what is left. If you are diligent it typically isn't too difficult, but is a bit more difficult to deal with that some other nuisance algae and such.
     
  6. Pickupman66

    Pickupman66 Tassled File Fish

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    FLOW is not what will get rid of it. I have some on my overflows and they are blasted with current. only thing that I have found to get rid of it is Chemiclean. I did that and it was gone for a while. it is back now and I have no clue why.
     
  7. cain

    cain Astrea Snail

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    3 days lights out, 4th day actinic only, 5th normal light cycle
     
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  9. m2434

    m2434 Giant Squid

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    Or you could do what cain suggested and save money and not use a chemical that could crash your tank. Just my .02. Usually neither is necessary though, I've had cyano in various tanks from time to time over the last decade and have never needed to resort to such measures. It can take weeks to even a month or so though. Some people have worse cases I guess, or less patience though, or tougher strains etc.. but if that's the case, lights out is definitely lot safer.
     
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  10. grinder37

    grinder37 Whip-Lash Squid

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    You're right,flow does not get rid of it,but good flow helps keep it from attaching and grabbing hold therefore letting your skimmer and filtration take out what it can.Chemiclean imo is a band aid,the reason it's coming back is because you have available nutrients to feed it,the root problem was not solved,high phosphate,overfeeding and/or trapped detritus are your likely culprits.
     
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  11. Pickupman66

    Pickupman66 Tassled File Fish

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    Grinder. thats what I thought, but I have zero testable nitrates. .05ppm Phosphates. it actually attached and grew right where my closed loop discharges against the front of the overflow boxes. detritus is not collecting there.
     
  12. grinder37

    grinder37 Whip-Lash Squid

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    No detritus is collecting there,but nutrient rich water is being pulled trough it all the time.I'm in no way pointing fingers as i'm guily myself,i'm fighting some as we speak (i have no sump,so all my gear is hob) and of all places to show up,other than my sand bed,is all of pumps inlets and all of my ph outlets.

    But I know what my culprit is,it's me :cheesy:,i overfeed and i know it,but i'm working on that and treating aggressively as I just bought a much,much better skimmer,i've changed my gfo,started running high grade carbon and along with wc's i'm already seeing a reduction,i may just go ahead with a couple day blackout to finish it off.

    The point i'm getting at,no matter what our hobby level test kits say,if I see cyano,I know that I have excess nutrients somewhere in my tank.