in the beginning....

Leave the lights off, unless you want a bad algae bloom.

 

i just left my lights on your guna get an algea bloom no matter what

 

Well true, but light also helps photosynthesis...which occurs in plants(algae).

 

I can give you a few tips on things I would change if I could turn back time.

1) Re-do all the joints on tank and sump with good GE 1 silicone (My tank and sump have micro water leaks and you can see salt creep bleeding through the bottom rims) and let it cure 24 hours.

2) When you set up, you can either use egg crate as suggested by bje, then the rock, and last add the sand (after your rock has been sorted inside the tank). The sand will cover part of the rock, but it's ok. The egg crate will keep your rock work where you put it, no accidental "slides" will occur and more importantly the weight of the rock will be distributed along the surface. Another solution for anti-slide if egg crate isn't for you, is the anti-slide mats people put inside drawers. It will accomplish the same without the wight distribution of your rock, again, use the mat on the bottom glass, then the rock and add the sand as the last ingredient.

3) Make absolutely sure you start with a good salt mix and also RO or RO/DI water or you will have algae problems later when your lights go on.

4) By all means, drill your tank if possible. Also, to avoid salt creep frustrations, try a Bean Drain Method (http://reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=11752972&postcount=1) or Herbie's Drain (http://www.reefcentral.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2652724&postcount=1) They both work on the same principle, but Bean's method has 2 fail-safes to prevent any overflow. It is definitely worth the extra effort when the end result is a completely silent, overflow safe setup.

5) Use, if possible, true gate valves instead of ball valves and use unions in key places to easy access and clean pipes in the future. You'll be glad you did the very first time you need to clean.

6) When I added my rocks, I used big chunks of live rock. I also regret this since it's harder to "aqua-scape" and also, this live rock had aiptasia on it. If you can, and unless you prefer otherwise, use smaller 1 to 2 pound "Base Rock" or dead rock pieces and you will avoid any unwanted pests.

7) Do not try to rush things with chemicals as I did. I became obsessed with having the perfect parameters and wanting to see coraline algae and ended up losing fish, corals and even inverts by adding all sorts of chemicals. If everything is given the time it needs, in the future you'll only need to add the big 3, Magnesium, Calcium and Alkalinity. Again, a good salt mix will help you by already having the right amount of additives.

8 ) Definitely use macro algaes and mangroves in your sump. My nitrates have always been undetectable after I added them to my refugium.

9) Keep the top of the tank uncovered. I used egg-crate once again to make lids since I had fish known to be "jumpers" in my tank. Glass lids can impede the gas exchange and your fish can suffocate and die (this also happened to me).

10) Research the fish, crab or coral you want to add, before you do. Make sure it won't eat your inverts or the crab won't eat your corals. Some considered "reef safe" crabs like the "Halloween Crab" can tun into corals as it also happened to me.

11) When in doubt, ask questions. People in this forum are here because they like this hobby. Everyone is very much willing to help and even though you may feel sometimes you're asking "too much" they don't mind answering and helping. I know this by experience.

That will keep you busy for a while

Good luck!

- Mag.

 

If the installation of your filter sock is properly executed, then running the return dry can't happen. Even if your filter sock becomes clogged, the setup should be such that the water flows out of the top and into the sump. If this isn't your scenario, you should make it so.

As for lights, it's common advice to keep them off during cycling. Photosynthesis is not to be encouraged until corals are in the tank. The fact that lights foster photosynthesis is the very reason that you want them off during this time. You want to develop the biological aspect of filtration, while discouraging algal growth.

 

ok, all good stuff, thanks guys! i do have another problem tho...my return pump is faster than my overflow. i have a 1" bulkhead draining by a 1" flex tube into the sump. the sump end of the tube is under 2-3" of water and a filter sock. the return is a (not-so) quietone 3000. by the stats it should be bushing 500-550 with the 5' of head. is it possible that if the overflow tube is under water that it won't drain fast enough?

 

Your overflow into the sump should be submerged. It helps to quiet the finished setup. It won't affect the flow rate from the DT to the sump.

Your return pump should be oversized, so in that respect, you did good! Place a valve on the pump's output line and throttle it back a bit.

Sounds like you're on your way.

 

A lot of great advice there.

 

ok, sum minor news, got some more stuff. i got a fuge light, some 3" ABS, wood for a light stand, handles, hinges, flterfloss, shrimp, thermometer and a free rock with sum grape calupera(sp) on it. and so the cycle begins! i think it looks great and has quieted down a bit too. i also paid for 15 LBS of live rock (very live rock) that im going to pick up up wed. here's some crappy pics!

 

Very nice setup. Love the water line descriptions