ph boosters

Discussion in 'Water Chemistry' started by euthyphro, Jan 30, 2007.

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  1. euthyphro

    euthyphro Flamingo Tongue

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    I just bought a salifert ph/kh booster off ebay because I can not seem to get my ph above 7.9.

    I was wondering if high calcium levels will lower the ph.. Im sure it is not an alkaline problem because i use ro water- i could be wrong though..

    So I have a few questions. First of all, in general are ph boosters safe to use (i have the kind that will not automatically reach a desired ph no matter how much neutralizer i put in- it is possible to overdose? Will ph/kh boosters eliminate, neutralize or take out (somehow) calcium or any other element that is messing up the ph or alkaline levels? How do ph/kh boosters work?

    Thanks in advance for your help ;)
     
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  3. Jason McKenzie

    Jason McKenzie Super Moderator

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    Sounds like you purchased this

    I think before you add anything to your tank you should know what your PH Alk and Ca are. Before adding the buffer I would purchase test kits for all 3 and measure. 7.9 PH isn't too bad, When was that measurement taken?

    Alk is not something that would be regulated by RO/DI water.

    There are a ton of Articals in books and on the web related to Reef Chemistry here is one
     
  4. euthyphro

    euthyphro Flamingo Tongue

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    my calcium levels are at 500ppm and my ph is at 7.7-7.9. I do not know my alkilinity... Thank you very much for that website!

    Do you think i should not use the ph booster? are they dangerous or do you have the philosophy that the most natural way is the best way (i kind of think that way as well)

    Also, do you think the ph booster will take down my salinity levels?
     
  5. Tangster

    Tangster 3reef Sponsor

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    A PH test kit is a waste of time and money you keep the DK or alk up then the PH matters not.. Thats what people would be better spending their time and money on a Good Carbonate/Alk or DKH all three are the same animal just different ways to test them. test kit and the Ca at 500 is perfect I run mine at 500 Plus and DKH at 14 to 15 . Ca will surpress the DK and DK will surpress the Ca. when the Magnesium gets to low and waht ever one gets ontop of the other stays there. until its adjusted. If more ran their Ca at 500 + and keepthe DKH at 13 +then they would have far less alage issues also.. I see my PH bang 9.00 manytimes and one average its upwards of 8.7 all the time..
     
  6. euthyphro

    euthyphro Flamingo Tongue

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    Thanks for the advice.. What is "DK". im assuming that it is different than alkilinity. So in other words, calcium supresses (directly or in-directly) the alk and vise versa (although you seem to say that it suppresses the dk directly). when the magnesium gets to low then either the calcium will suppress the DK or the DK will suppress the calcium (depending on what ever one there is more of)?-is this right? also, how does one raise the "Dk" or ph.

    In short, one should keep up the Ca and DK.
    so it seems that if i do these things i will not need a ph buffer at all!
     
  7. euthyphro

    euthyphro Flamingo Tongue

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    I just orderd a Salifert Alk test off ebay for $15 including shipping... I now understand that Alkilinity acts as a buffer to "absorb" acidic substances thus keeping the ph at a high and stable range.... Am I right?

    Does one eventually reach a point where he has nothing left to learn about reef aquariums, Sheesh :eek:
     
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  9. Tangster

    Tangster 3reef Sponsor

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    Yes at some point you will learn 1/2 of what you read is B/S printed to be sold by self proclaimed educated experts and the other half is simple solid applied common sense and all the chemistry that is needed to run an aquarium was figured out yrs ago LOL But yes You keep the Alk with a sailfert at 0.14 range and then the PH has to be perfect.. If more people kept higher Alk or DKH and a elevated PH then they would find less algae problems But you have to watch the Calcium as well to keep them level also if not one will get over the other then yo yo on you.. Magnesium is what comes into play here.
    I use simple old Epsom Salts 1.99 for a few yrs supply. Keep the Mag at 14 to 1500 and you will be fine..All I ever test for is DKh Ca. and Mag as a rule. What you need to know will come with experience. PH Alk and DKH both mean the same thing.. And PH just tells you that its needed so as I say if you test that then keep them at needed levels why waste time with P.H ? Dang Common sense LOL
     
  10. euthyphro

    euthyphro Flamingo Tongue

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    Just to make sure i understand this, keep my calcium and alkalinity up (with epsom salts, this is all so new to me). Add magnesium to keep the calcium and alkalinity from yo yo-ing. Please respond and tell me if i understand this.

    What about the calcium solidifying? Doesnt calcium solidify when it is high and the pH is high as well? Then my pumps and hoses will get clogged with calcium- or am i wrong? My bottle of purple up says not to let the calcium rise above 420ppm or the calcium will precipitate (I think that means solidify). What do you think about this?

    One last thing, if my alkalinity is up, and my water has plenty of oxygen, then my ph should go up as well right? One more last last thing, the main way to bring alkalinity up is by adding carbonates and bicarbonates right?

    Thank you very much for your help it is greatly appreciated!!!!
     
    Last edited: Feb 1, 2007
  11. euthyphro

    euthyphro Flamingo Tongue

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    anyone out there who wants to tell me the relationship between calcium, alkilinity, and magnesium would be my hero.... How do you keep calcium from solidifying on your equipment when it is in high levels...
     
  12. djnzlab1

    djnzlab1 Aiptasia Anemone

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    Lets see now

    HI,
    I have found a product that has trace elements Ca++ and carbonate, it is balanced and is slow to release the ALK buffer when used as directed , I don't worry much about PH or CA++ they have been right on the mark PH is pushing 8.4, and the fish seem happy.
    Its called argonite-milk its made from super refined argonite rock that hs been mixed with water, the only down, is if you add it to fast it will precip out into a solid so I let only about 20 drops drop slowly in the water at the water out-put for the sump and it turns the water milky for about 1 hour then clears. Its a no-brainer for newbies and fixes that problem that many skimmers cause of lowering trace, I still add Iodine twice a week.
    Here's the blurb ((CaribSea aragaMILK

    [​IMG]


    The new, easy way to add balanced calcium, carbonate buffer, and essential trace elements like strontium, magnesium, barium to your marine or hard water aquarium. aragaMilk uses the power of natural aragonite for flash mineralization, plus the boost of magnesium to aid in coraline algae growth. No two parts to mix, no risk of overdose. aragaMILK is safe, easy, and effective.))


    coraline formation and ca deposits are a indication of good water in my book and cleaning out excess is just part of the fun of keeping saltwater..

    here's a pretty basic explanation of that water chemistry.

    Reefkeeper's FAQ - Part 1
     
    Last edited: Feb 2, 2007