Purewaterclub ro/di units

are these things anygood i have one that is 6 stage an i find that most other brand filters fit in my unit as with any other ro/di unit and does it make a difference if the housings are clear or not heres mine.
Reef Drinking RO DI Reverse osmosis Water Filter System - eBay (item 380150274710 end time Aug-24-09 20:32:59 PDT) and if i add another stage of di will my water quality get any better

 

The only problem I see with your system is the DI chamber is horizontal, which allows the water to channel across the top of the resin. I would try to mount the DI verticle (hang on the wall or something). As far as adding another DI. It would just last longer, due to the fact that there is more resin. Do you use a TDS meter. If not you should. The clear cannisters are nice, but not necessary. Just gives you an indication of when to start testing for TDS. Always use a TDS. I would have changed my filters and resin way too early if I just went by looks. Hope this helps.

 

my tds reads 10 after now is it time to change the filters

 

Some ppl here have bought some units from them, I dont know if they like them or not. I havent heard any good or bad things about them, so I cant comment .

Luna

 

I have one like that with out the drinking water tank and so far i don't have any complaints i do know they sell some that are not 0 tds and some that are, i may be wrong but i think the only difference is the resin in the DI chamber.

 

I actually bought an RO/Di from purewaterclub and I really like it. Mine is the same as the one your looking at, but without the pressure tank. I did also buy another DI filter that stands upright so it gets filtered twice. I wasn't sure because it is pretty small. It could be taken off and hung horizontally if you wanted too. The pressure tank would be nice, but I fill a 50 gallon drum for my 90 and 55 gallon tanks.

I have never had issues with it and recomend it BUT I dont have a TDS...

 

I have the same one.but with out the tank.I have had it approx 2 yrs with zero problems(knock on wood)..if your comes with the flush valve,just use that once or twice a month for 30 or so minutes to keep sediment from building up(this will depend on how often u use it)..def inves in a tds meter either in line or hand held.very useful/important..hope this helps ya..

 

Decent drinking water units but very low end when it comes to reef quality water.

For one you need a 10" canister style 20 oz refillable DI filter that does not channel or short circuit. Granular carbons have no place in a RO/DI system. The prefilter and carbon block need to be low micron, usually sub 1 micron like the 0.6 micron Chlorine Guzzler Matrikx+1 carbon block and a 1 micron or less prefilter to protect it and let it does its job not act as a secondary prefilter.

Unless you havea TDS meter you have no idea whatsoever how well it is working. Always get and use a handheld TDS meter such as the HM Digital TDS-3. Thats the only way of knowing how pooly or well it is performing.

Don't fall into the "STAGES" trap! That is a sales ploy the ebay vendors use to make a cheap system sound like the best thing since sliced bread. For RO only you need 3 "stages" and RO/DI you need 4, thats it period. You need a low micron prefilter, a single low micron carbon block and a name brand RO membrane like the 75 GPD Dow Filmtec or 100 GPD GE Water. For DI you need these plus a vertical 20 oz DI thats it. Don't bother with cheap low capacity dual carbons, high micron prefilters that perform about as well as a screen door. Small 6 or 9 oz horizontal tubes they call DI filters andsome stcak a couple on and tout contact time. Or horizontal drinking water taste and odor carbons that add TDS back into the water. Its all bull.

 

Rat, just curious-Have you used the RO/DI unites from the pure water club?
I have seen your input or reply on a few threads and they seem to imply or directly say these are not good-hense my question.

You mentioned a TDS meter, which is how I found this thread, I am looking for what levels I should see when testing the water that comes out of the RO/DI unit.

Sorry for hijacking your thread Kedron but this information could be helpful unless you know what levels the TDS should read, and also can find out why these seem to not be good units in this persons opinion-I have stumbled across a dozen threads that are from people who bought from those guys and everyone says good things, the only neg I have read that specificlly says these are bad are from AZdesertrat

No offense meant AZ just curious as to the "Why"

 

I have not owned one myself but I have assisted numerous local reefers modify or upgrade theirs to a reef quality unit. I have done the same with Filters Direct/Water General, Watts Premier, Whirlpool and others almost identical to them too. Unless you have had the opportunity to see them side by side and take them apart on a workbench its hard to fathom the differences. Having started with a Watts Premier systems back in 1990 myself I can attest to the fact it costs more to upgrdae a drinking wate rsystem that it costs to but a reef quality system to begin with or to convert a reef quality system to provide drinking water too.
Start with the reef quality system, its by far the better choice.

Most if not all who are saying good things have nothing to compare to. I own a Spectrapure MaxCap UHE and had both a 90 GPD and 180 GPD dual membrane MaxCap before that. I have also owned a Typhoon III and set up my reefing buddies PurelyH2o Optima Automated for him. There is a difference and its very apparent when you have them side by side.

As far as TDS levels you should see a 96-98+% reduction in TDS between tap water and RO only water. This is very important since for every 2% reduction in membrane efficiency you cut your DI life in half. What seemed to be inexpensive to begin with ends up costing much more in DI resin replacements very quickly.