PVC pipes leaking

Discussion in 'ASAP' started by Reef Lover, Apr 12, 2006.

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  1. Covey

    Covey Scooter Blennie

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    NO NO NO. Sorry don't use anything that say it have anti-microbal stuff in it ever major no-no. Just redo it it will be alot easier.
     
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  3. CodyW

    CodyW Spaghetti Worm

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    I would tear it down too and restart but for a temp job you might be able to use one of those epoxy sticks. But it's way better to go ahead and redo it now instead of in a couple months.

    I agree the fungicides in those will cause problems and be careful because GE is putting 'microban' in their window and door silicone for some reason, it's the same label with a small yellow sticker saying it has microban.
     
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  4. chetrod

    chetrod Peppermint Shrimp

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    I had a leak before on the drain side.I agree it is much easier to cut and paste the pieces back together than to try and bandage it over and over. Bandaids don't last forever.
     
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  5. Reef Lover

    Reef Lover Sea Dragon

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  6. JAFO

    JAFO Astrea Snail

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    See that's a common mistake. It's a two step process, always use primer then glue other wise you will never get the bond you need.

    Cut it out and redo, best method.
     
  7. rickzter

    rickzter Torch Coral

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    that anti-microbial stuff will kill lots of living organisms within your water. Not good for the health of your system in the long run.
     
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  9. ragc

    ragc Bristle Worm

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    Piping in late... Tearing down and redoing is the best way. However, a permanent bandaid may do the trick, if you are willing to experiment. PVC pipe cement is a solvent that softens the PVC on both sides of the joint so that they 'melt' together forming one material. The primer is a cleaner that gets rid of the oils left over from the manufacture of the pipe so that the solvent spreads evenly and does not have bubbles of oil in it that would produce gaps in the bond (ergo: leaks).

    1) You could get a collar the diameter of the outside of the pipe you are joining. The best way is to get a straight splice and cut it in two, throwing out the section that keeps the center flange. Cut this collar lengthwise in two parts. Use a hacksaw and a bench clamp to hold the pipe while you cut. Clean the cuts with a file or fine sandpaper.
    2) Prime the inside and factory cut end of the collar halves, and the section of existing piping before the elbow, including the end of the elbow fitting. Cement the halves to the pipe making sure that the factory cut ends abbut the elbow joint that leaks and are tight against the elbow end, and that you have applied an even coat of cement to the elbow end, the factory end of your halves, and the longitudinal cuts you made to the sleeve. The longitudinal cut ends will not come together totally, as you will have lost some material to the hacksaw cut. To try compress them as close as they can come, get two correctly-sized hose clamps (the metal ones you screw to tighten) and open them, insert them around the patch, and tighten them as much as you can while the PVC weld is fresh. You can leave these clamps on permanently or you can remove them after an hour or so.

    This (untested) solution may allow you to avoid tearing down the system, and if it fails, you are only out a couple of bucks, and you then should proceed to tear the elbow and the patch off and re-do the work as everyone recommends.

    Good luck!
     
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  10. Reef Lover

    Reef Lover Sea Dragon

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    Thanks, I'm going to do this tomorrow.
     
  11. Reef Lover

    Reef Lover Sea Dragon

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    Ok, I rebuild everything again and I notice after I put the primer on, then put the cement on, it didn't run off like before, you can tell the difference right away. I took a hammer and took apart the old one and everything fell apart very easy. What a BIG difference adding the primer. Thanks everyone for the help.
     
  12. msk454

    msk454 Astrea Snail

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    thats good, happy everything is ok now.