QT/HT tank setup

So I have been very fortunate in the past in regard to never having any issues with disease or pests when adding new livestock.

However, I am a believer in Murphy's law and want to make this change before my luck runs out.

So I am wanting to setup a QT/HT tank which I would be able to use for Fish and coral. Also, I am hoping to get items i would be able to use for other tasks when the QT/HT is not in use. Since i am doing things this way I want some feedback positive and negative on my out of the box ideas.

For starters I am looking at doing something a little different for filtration. I know most people recommend a sponge filter and that you leave the tank running at all times so it is cycled when you need it for those HT moments. My thought on this is to buy a small PH which has the option of adding an airline to oxygenate the water and instead of a sponge i was thinking a mesh bag with bioballs which could stay in my sump for biological filtration and moved to the QT/HT when needed. My theory is this would keep me from having to have the tank running at all times which would be too much of temptation to keep things in there, ie frags, making it no longer available as HT, and I would be able to use the PH to move water for other purposes when it is down.

Then next issue i have is with lighting. Like i said earlier, I want to be able to use this tank for coral. At this time I am thinking Zoas and mushrooms would be the first inhabitants, so I am looking at my cheapest available option for lighting which i could upgrade at a later time for when i decide to add more sps. I have no ideas in this area and would really appreciate any suggestions. I really hope to spend as little as possible for this.

Other than these two things from what I understand I would only need a heater?

Any other suggestions/ideas, or if i have missed anything, is greatly appreciated.

 

An issue might be introduction of a fish with a parasite, that parasite might require a fallow period to eradicate if you do not eradicate the parasite with medications. Lets say you put a tang in the QT/H, that tang has marine ich, you do not prophylactically treat for marine ich, and the fish does not become symptomatic.

 

So is this an issue with the filtration? If so I am not following.

 

Parasites can encrust on any medium, bio-balls or similar bio filtration. A continuously running QT/HT is pretty common, but you did not address whether you were going to treat prophylatically. I see no issues, just be aware a parasite has a refuge to re-infect fish newly introduced to the QT/HT.

 

Is it advised to treat prophylatically? I haven't found a whole lot of info on this on 3reef, maybe i should elsewhere as well.

As far as using bioballs, are you saying by having them in my main system and then moving them to the HT, it could infect the HT? Or by having the bioballs go into the HT they would become infected there, thus not killing the parasite and the quarantinee could still be infected after 6-8 weeks?

 

My way of looking at it is that you should treat prophylatically for internal parasites always, and prophylactically for fish at high risk of carrying marine ich.

If you're going to do it, which I applaud, then treat for the most common aliments. Internal parasites and external are common to certain fish types like Wrasse, you may not notice internal parasites until a fish is wasting away ( assuming you would not buy a fish that is obviously nutritionally challenged upon visual inspection).

Some tangs are not going to become symptomatic with marine ich while in QT.

Your thread asked if you were basically considering all your options, I am merely addressing aspects that you did not mention.

How long are you going to QT each fish....Brooklynella while it may be readily apparently sometimes it might not be?

If you are going to run bio-logical filtration than it must remain in a active system, treating with medication might #1. Medium will absorb the medication. #2. Might be a place where pathogens reside because the the system is on going.

I am not saying your way is right or wrong, again I think it's a fantastic intervention.

 

Quarantine is a completely new process to me. I only ask questions because i don't understand something and only want to make sure i implement this change correctly and the best way possible for success. So I think prophylactic treatment will be what i do, since you seem to think that is a good way to go and I value and respect your knowledge.

I wanted my OP to be criticized due to my lack of knowledge on the subject and I want to learn about it.

As far as how long i will QT i always see 6-8 weeks. I hate this measure because 2 weeks is a lot of leeway. How long should I quarantine, considering i will more than likely be treating? And while I am thinking about it, What should i treat with?

Now with the bio filtration, I am assuming it is necessary? I don't want it running all the time if I can avoid it because if it is there running, i will try to put something in it. What are my options here. Unfortunately, We don't have a really good source here for QT setup and options at least that i could find.

Also I do need some direction for quarantining coral. The coral i have now have come from a trusted source so i have not QT or treated them ever in the past. Is quarantining necessary for coral if you treat them? At this point I have had more success with coral than I ever had in the past and I don't want to jeopardize it with adding something potentially harmful.

 

Unfortunately I do not see Greg and Renee from LionfishLair around much anymore. They are an excellent resource for all things QT and treatments, if I remember correctly they took down their QT after each QT procedure and then set it up all over again each time. I imagine with they have done it hundreds of times at least. Below is a nice outline of the most common treatment options.

http://forum.lionfishlair.com/index.php?topic=1399.0

This link makes an excellent point regarding the difference between a QT and a HT, I am guess your thinking more along the lines of QT rather than treatment.

http://www.reefs.com/magazine/82352-journey-reef-aquarium.html

And this one by Leebca: You can not really go a miss if you research this thread and the above information.


http://www.reefsanctuary.com/forums.../23584-fish-quarantine-process-step-step.html

Now for corals.

Dips and visual inspection are going to go along ways in preventing introduction of pest, diseases are limited to such things as Brown Jelly Disease. A visual inspection with a dip or bath is as far as I have gone regarding corals, I really never QT with the intention of observation only, I was always observing them anyways no matter what system they went into.

You need to know the usual suspects

Flatworms and nudibranch are fairly common, they cover a wide range of inverts/pest you'll come across.

Red bugs of course.

When you dip you'll shake or swirl the coral around in the solution, most pest will dislodge so you can see what you're dealing with.

HTH

 

I tried just a powerhead and didn't work well. Once I added the sponge filter it was night and day. No idea why but it was. And sponge filters are $6.
I lost all my fish to ich and I didn't QT. I didn't get ich from not QT. It was my fault 6 months from getting fish.
But now I QT everything. Just got some zoa and thank god I QT. Dip of Coral RX and found 48 bristle worms and other critters.


Anyway my QT is bare. Couple PVC elbows and a sponge filter. Heater too. Cupramine for ich and Praziprofor the rest.

 

I also break my 30g down and up based on fish. I'm set for fish so don't think it will be up soon. Having said that I'm getting into corals and experience from my zoas says it takes multiple dips to get everything off.
This hobby is so frustrating. It's why right now with a stable tank I'm not adding any fish and limited corals. Did just get a maxima clam though