Skin Peeling!!

Discussion in 'ASAP' started by gsxr1000rider, Sep 5, 2010.

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  1. gsxr1000rider

    gsxr1000rider Fire Shrimp

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    Aug 29, 2010
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    Location:
    Glendora, CA
    so confusing, seems like everything i read contradicts what someone else says. Black, could you give me some possible solutions from your end? ive dropped the heater temp and will bring it back to 78...current is 79..thanks
     
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  3. blackraven1425

    blackraven1425 Giant Squid

    Joined:
    Mar 1, 2010
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    4,780
    I'm pretty sure that's not ich, but you don't want to raise the temperature when dealing with any parasite.

    It looks like brooklynella to me.
     
  4. gsxr1000rider

    gsxr1000rider Fire Shrimp

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    Location:
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    my Niger trig has it on his right side as well? How could this of popped up out of know where? past 3 months have been great so i thought. should i QT them both? could this spread... From what ive read, with this poss being brooklyn, there most likely goners...
     
  5. novahobbies

    novahobbies Astrea Snail

    Joined:
    Jun 8, 2010
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    Location:
    Boca Raton, FL
    Here's the skinny on temperature and C. irritans: The parasite's metabolism and life cycle is sped up as temperature increases. The theory behind the advice to "heat up the tank" is that the parasites will die off faster, but the higher heat doesn't necessarily change the gestation period of the encysted tomites, so the cycle is free to continue. Furthermore, increasing the heat does nothing, and in fact has a few detrimental effects to the fish, if the tank isn't dosed with copper or other other killing agent when the trophont stage leaves the fish. In regards to O2 concentration, yes the higher temps will definitely cause an unsafe drop in O2 when combined with some medications.

    The only sure-fire way that has been PROVEN, time and again, to totally remove ich from a tank is a full QT of the fish in a separate bare bottom tank while the display is left fallow for one to two months. Increasing the temp of the empty DT during this stage is certainly helpful. The fish are now free to undergo hyposalinity, copper, or other similar treatments. I know that this is probably not the answer you want to hear, but it really is the best. Now is also a good time to go buy a hospital tank or two: Petco is running their $1.00 per gallon sale, so you could get two 40 gallon breeders for $80 bucks to QT all your fish.

    There are some new food products on the market you could consider trying. I honestly don't know if metronidazole will do you much good; it's primarily considered an anitbiotic, with antiprotazoan effects secondary. Dr G's is currently marketing a new frozen food with different medications, including an anti-parisitic food that is gutloaded with chloroquine phosphate. Check that out, it might be effective for you.

    Finally, here's a good article about the life cycle and treatment options of marine Ich. It's a couple years old, so it doesn't cover some of these new medicated food options, but the tips and info in the article are very good. Happy Reading!
     
  6. gsxr1000rider

    gsxr1000rider Fire Shrimp

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    Location:
    Glendora, CA
    well after doing some research, i think i have identified the problem. "Velvet". as i had asked in a a prior post about my humu trig scratching himself against my live rock, it is a systom caused by Valvet.
    Symptoms:
    •Scratchs against hard objects
    •Fish is lethargic
    •Loss of appetite and weight loss
    •Rapid, labored breathing
    •Fins clamped against body
    •Fine yellow or rusty colored film on skin
    •In advanced stages skin peels off

    Fish Disease - Velvet

    this is the post i read up on which pointed out most symptoms my fish have...