T5s Q&A

I never installed by fans in my canopy when first setting up my tank. So my procrastination cost me 4 bulbs in 4 months. These were overdriven. Now I have my fans in and everything is cool to the touch. Also I heard a improperly cooled bulb will affect it's par also.

 

I have used two GLO T5 Retrofit kits inside a 72" Hood. I am running 1-36" acitinic blue and 1-36" daylight bulb on each side of the tank. If I get one more retrofit kit, should I put more daylight bulbs in? Will that be enough?

 

So you are saying you have 4 36" bulbs in a 6' tank? You have them end to end I take it... You are planning on adding 2 more bulbs, correct? I would add the bulbs you like to produce the spectrum you want. Typically day light bulbs have more PAR than blue bulbs but you could have a crappy daylight bulb that is putting out less PAR than a great blue bulb. I you are asking how much light you need, to be effective, you will need more bulbs. If you are asking what bulbs to use to get the most out of 6 36" bulbs I would say 4 day to 2 blue or at most 1:1... But the first recommendation will be awfully white/yellow.
I guess I need to know exactly what you are asking so I know exactly how to answer!

Happy lighting!

 

Dr.-

I currently have a 36" Nova Extreme Pro over my 46 bowfront and I would like to get your opinion on a bulb configuration for optimal growth.

Right now I have 3 x ATI Actinic Blue + and 3 x KorallenZucht Daylights

I get awesome growth from my Acros, but I get slow growth from other SPS like Montis and Pocilloporas. In fact, I've even has some Montis bleach out if they were too high up in the tank.

Do you think I should replace some of the whites? Maybe more blues or a KZ Fiji/Purple?

Thanks for your help!

 

You do have a pickle there... The problem is two folded... Montis and Pocilliporas have a lower level of photosaturation and photoinhibition than other more light loving acros. Many pocilliporas saturation points are ~225uMol/m2/sec where as a stag like acropora formosa will saturate at 340 uMol/m2/sec...(Riddle 2008) Ok you are thinking well thats good, that means my pocillipora will grow optimally in less light, yes but once you get to the inhibition point the coral will grow slower or even starve as the zooxanthellae stops producing food. SO if you are litterally blasting the tank with light you can negatively affect your montis and the pocilliporas.
Granted with your setup I doubt anyone is at the photoinhibition point.
In your tank esp with the bleaching montis I would put any coral whose light requirements are in question, towards the bottom third.
Montis tend to bleach easier than many other SPS, water temp change, esp colder will cause it, drastic changes in salinity or even chemistry has caused it and sudden light changes as well. Are you talking about monti caps or digitatas or what?.....
Also in regards to the slow pocillipora.... In all reality they are not the fastest grower to begin with.
I have one thats in roughly 375uMol/m2/sec and yes its getting more light than it needs it is much slower growing than everything around it.

Is it possible instead of changing bulbs to just move the montis and pocilliporas? Honestly thats what I would do. If you like the current spectrum and the other corals are growing well don't mess with the bulbs mess with the corals in question.

What are the params of the tank?

Happy lighting!

 

Which bulbs would you recommend from Giesemann or ATI!? Something that would be a nice crisp blue!?

Thanks!!

 

Gmann-Aquablue mixed with Actinic+ or for ATI Aquablue mixed with Blue+. A 1:1 ratio will be pretty blue heavy but not overwhelming. Personally I think 3:2 White/blue gives a good blend that is not too blue but crisp.

But beauty is in the eye of the beholder!!

Happy lighting!

 

hey i do not really care for the g-men bulbs they kinda seem cheaply made, but more expensive. they have a nice temp., and par, but do not light end to end. bulb quality do not seem worth the price, has lots of minor defects. and was not just my bulbs i looked threw a bunch at my lfs. IMO,IMO




i do have a t5 question, i love a good diy, and i was wondering would it be possible to gut 2 4x54 watt nova units, for ballasts,fan, wires,and plugs, then install them in a diy hood with new SLR'S. and endcaps,

or you think it would be too hard too get the components out of the nova's.?

well if you think this is doable, is there a good material to use for diy fixtures.

 

You bring up a good point about the ends bluephish... To some that is a bad selling point. I honestly don't believe it reflects upon the quality of the bulb produced just the way they fire the bulb...The price in my eyes can be steep as well, esp if you are a retailer.... There is little margin with Gmann bulbs esp compared to say UVL or something like that.

As far as the DIY is concerned. Ballasts you can keep, wire too I suppose even though that gauged wire Current uses in there is cheap... you can get it at the hardware store for like 15cents a foot or something.

So essentially what you are doing is using the guts to make a retro with new reflectors?
Sounds like it should work to me.... depending on if you get it all out right.
You will also need water proof endcaps, standoffs and lamp clips if the SLR you buy doesn't come with them.
Do you know how to wire endcaps?

Happy DIY!

 

um no .lol but it can be that hard. i have said that before.

yeah but basically it cant be any diff. than a retro kit.
the canopy will be easy(experience with this).
and i can get a acrylic splash guard cut cheaply.
and i already got a coralvue temp. sensor fan. than def can keep the whole thing cool.
and i can get endcaps, and ice cap reflectors at the lfs cheap.
already got all brand new g mann/uvl bulbs
so it only comes down too if guts come out cleanly.
ill post pics later,lol gotta go make supplies list.!!

honestly tho about the g-mann bulbs i do like the temp of the aquablue very crisp. that setup was a lil blue for me i ran it for a while. 1 uvl actinic white balanced it out well thou.