T5s Q&A

RC huh? WHAT?.... In all reality I have spoken to quite a few people who have tested PAR on ND lamps Vs OD lamps and depending on the lamp size it can be personal opinion if its worth it. Good thing is for you the 60" lamps have a better ratio in your favor in regards to PAR increase % vs energy consumption increase %.... That is according to Steve aka Grim Reefer...

In regards to the thread on RC, its odd that IC still hasn't responded.
I can post another pic if you need ideas on how I built the frame...

 

I would like more pics! The more the merrier. In my working to educate myself, I find myself rushing through threads looking for the pictures. Thousand words and all that.

It would appear that Aquactinics doesn't make a 60" reflector. Apparently the procedure then is to double up a 36".

 

If you're looking for 60" reflectors with non-overdriven ballasts here's an option.
http://www.reefgeek.com/lighting/T5...put_Retrofit_Kit_w!_Bulbs_by_AquaIllumination

Aquaillumination is the Reefgeek brand reflector I believe.

Here's a T5 reflector comparison. It was done end of last year so maybe things have changed, I'm not sure.
Reef Central Online Community - T-5 Reflectors :: Whose Are The Best?

 

Thanks for both links. The comparison on the reflectors was interesting. I wish someone had addressed the question asked at the end of the thread about the rate of drop-off for the Reefgeek reflectors. If my understanding is correct the Aquactinic reflectors mainted a tigher spread deeper. Probably a good thing in this case (8 bulbs over a tank 24" wide).

Instead of buying 2 36" aquactinic reflectors I think I can get away with buying 11 of the 48" ones (the ones made for 54w bulbs) and some extra bulb clips. So instead of joining 2 36" reflectors together to get to a reflector suited for a 60" bulb, join one 54w reflector with a third of another .

I really need to not be thinking about this right now. Not much work getting done.

 

Be careful with your idea.... 60" lamps do NOT require 60" SLRs... its less than that to accomodate the water proof endcaps!!

 

Dr. Fragenstein,

What bulbs are you using? What photoperiod?

I'm not sure I understand the appeal of the "blue" look. It could very well be that I haven't seen enough tanks to appreciate it but to my inexperienced eye I prefer the "white" look.

 

I run Giesemann, 3 Aquablue+, 3 Actinic+ and 2 6000k lamps... I run four of them, 3blue and 1 white from 8:15a to 8:15p and the others are on from 10ish until 6ish...

Many people like the blue as it will bring out certain colors but also look more natural... Many people don't like white as it appears "un"natural... Its all in the eye of the beholder. Mine is slightly blue, more of like a 12,000k look, but the kelvin aspect can be skewed as well as a 10,000k is SUPPOSED to be WHITE but mose lamps look yellowish... Even Giesemanns Aquablue standing alone isn't all that white and is supposed to be a higher kelvin lamp.

I forgot to mention about the SLRs length the other day...
A SLR for a 24" lamp is actually 19.5"
a 36" one is 31 5/7" and a 48" one is 43 3/8" or at least Aquactinics are....

I will try to measure my retros SLRs if I remember and post you the exact length.

 

I've been looking at replacing my bulbs and Im a little confused on the Giesemann bulbs,

right now I have 2 460nm and 2 10k's.
Should I replace the actinics for the Giesemann actinic +
and replace the 10ks for the Aquablue+?
or are the Aquablue+ just actinics and I still have to get a daylight bulb?

sorry if this is a trivial question Dr.Frag, It's just the way they name there bulbs is a bit confusing as I only have a 4 bulb fixture so i can't mix it up to much.

 

If I was in your boat I would go plain and simple and do 2 Blue/Actinic+ and 2 Aquablue+. It will be a nice white, with slightly blue hue, I mean slight, but have decent PAR... ATI and Giesemann are nearly identical lamps so either or is fine... ATI calls Blue+ what GMann calls Actinic+ so just keep that in mind.
The Aquablue+ is a whiteish lamps with a blue hue when lit... BUT if you were to run only AB+ it wouldn't appear blue at all, in my eyes tanks that run only AB+ almost have a 10.000k or lower look to them.

Alternate the lamps if you can but if you have it set up that you have 2 switches on the fixture place the lamps so they are on their own switch for dawn/dusk mode.

 

thanks Dr.Frag,
I like the whitish blue look so that will work good.

the bulbs are alternated and each set has there own built in timer and switches. One of the things that sold me on the sundial. The only thing that bothers me is if one of the timers goes. for a entry level light it has some good features.