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less feeding, more water changes, less lighting period,more manual removing it. I did just buy some chemi-clean (algae remover) for my cyano. but...
probly a small/cheap pc or t5 light fixture. here's a cheapo t5 fixture....
Eshopps Siphon Overflow Box 75 Gal PF-300 Fish D18 - eBay (item 120553741148 end time Apr-11-10 19:35:56 PDT) you might be able to find a overflow...
a couple cheapo CFL flood lights would work fine. could house them in a homemade canopy if wanting it to look pretty.
most people put blue and actinic bulbs on 1 timer and rest on another timer. run 12hrs with actinic/blues, and 7-8 with all lights on.
I also see fiji purple's are not recommend stand alone bulbs.. but in this case, it would be a nice addtion to his light fixture.
maybe for now do. ATI blue plus ati aquablue+ 12k actinic white super actinic 12k sctinic white 10k aquasun super actinic 10k aquasun...
put the 2 new bulbs in the front. too many aquasuns in your fixture. down the road replace some more with ati blue+, will get rid of all white...
x2 bulf reef supply has tons of reef supplements for good price..
I would do 2 of these options. 1st. 2x UVL super actinics and 2x UVL 454nm T5 bulbs or update: dingo recommended. 2nd. 2x ATI BLUE PLUS...
I'd just clean and keep the bioballs. you could add some chaeto into the DT. it works wonders for nitrate removal. still need to do a couple WC now...
I wouldnt worry about it. 8.3 is ideal. Ive seen my ph run 8.0-8.4.. just make sure your dkh is 9-12. do you run AC all year or leave windows open...
x2 on that.. just use it and down the road, switch back to your LFS seachem mag stuff. it works fine for me, and have no complaints.
maybe didnt help, but to be that high, they were already 100+ppm.. no good. dont fool yourself, follow our game plan.. clean those bioballs and do...
nice fuge!
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