150 gal corner build *Long overdue update*

ok. that sounds good. i'm thinking i'll coincide my fish buying with when i do water changes... i figure i'll take the water change dt water and drop it into the qt... then just add my new salt water mix. "voila"

 

You might want to up that in minutes to get a true gyre effect. I believe that's how it is in the ocean. Just an opinion.

 

That is not quite true as there are technically two "free swimming" stages. The first is the Theront stage where the parasite hatches from the substrate. This is the stage where it only has up to 48 hours to find a new host (what you were referring to). The other is the Trophont Free Swimming stage after the paraiste has hatched from a fish. Here it finds a place in the substrate/live rock, etc, to attach to and continue the cycle. Once it attaches, it can take between 3-28 days (or more) before it hatches to find a new host. You could technically siphon off the free swimming parasite in this stage at this time and transfer it to the QT. For this reason, I personally advise against using DT water for QT and vice versa. Here is some reading for you:

http://www.3reef.com/forums/fish-diseases/life-cycle-marine-ich-96343.html

Marine Ich

 

Thanks for the input!

Here's where I got the idea. My rock work and the spacing I have from the back wall all the way around it almost acts like the vertical gyre discussed, so it was an easy experiment to try. They don't discuss time spent running in one direction. They only talk about the importance of getting high laminar speeds to generate turbulent flow at the coral surface. If I have time today, I'll post a couple videos with 25 second and 60 second intervals and see what you think.

Feature Article: Water Flow is More Important for Corals Than Light, Part V — Advanced Aquarist | Aquarist Magazine and Blog

 

Yep. I was thinking about the hatch to finding a host time frame and completely spaced on the leaving the fish to cyst time frame.

Thanks for the catch and correction!

 

Found this tonight when I opened my hood and looked a tthe lights. From front ot back, bulbs are Actinic+ (Geisemann), Aquablue Special (Geisemann), True Actinic (Geisemann), DIY LED, Blue+ (ATI), Coral+ (ATI), Blue+ (ATI).

Is the low output from the Actinic+ a bad bulb, a bad ballast, or all of the above?

Thanks for any insight!

 

Bad bulb, if it was a ballast issues the other bulbs using that ballast would also not be lighting properly. Do double sheck to make sure the bulb is seated properly.

 

Bad bulb it is.

Checked and it's seated well. Time for a 48" Blue+.

Thanks for the help.

 

I know I am late but did you try any other bulbs in that same socket. I know it sounds dumb. I don't know much about your light fixture but that was another test i thought you could perform to see if it was the ballast or light. How many ballast are in that light?

 

Good idea. I can swap it with the other 48" to see if I get the same result.

They're the remote mount ballasts that you used to be able to get from DFS. The ballasts are mounted inside my stand and wires run up to the bulbs. There's 3 ballasts for the 6 lights.