2 Small leaks at pvc ball valve union, Help me please.

I'm going to try the epoxy fix for now. Even if it cracks in the future it should give me some time to get more cash for the definitive fix.

Here's how it all looks, it got super, SUPER dirty as soon as I turn started the sump:



Here's the sump. I removed the skimmer's collection cup to work easier on that leak:


Here's a sketch of it, even though most of it is visible in the pic above:


And here's a diagram of the connections:



As you can see, I can cut the ball valve off and fix a new one using couplings.

But I may need to re-do the whole section. I just hope I can patch it with epoxy for now since the Gorilla glue did not work for me and had to cut it off, sand the pipe all around and cleaned with Denatured Alcohol before epoxying.

Any suggestions before I try the Epoxy?

Please let me know.

- Mag.

 

If its on the drain from the overflow box yoou don't need a valve there anyway. You should never ever restrict your overflow as there is a chance of it backing up and overflowing the display. If you need to slow flows do it with a ball valve on the discharge side of the return pump, the overflow will always balance itself out with the return rate.

 

Take some primer wipe the area down and then just glue over it the primer will actually get back up into the fitting and melt and fuse it to a point where it will not lea via capillary action much like solder does on a copper fitting we do it all the time with acrylic and PVC glue . Epoxy is not going to do much for you .

 

I was unaware of that. The valve is to restrict the flow to the fuge, but the other valve is completely opened. I was just trying to have slower flow in the fuge since I don't need so much in there. It's not a straight shot down to the sump but the noise isn't much. Just the overflow box sounds like a toilet all the time. I'll have to work on that. I can change my plumbing in about 4 to 5 weeks. Please I would appreciate advice on the plumbing since as you can see, I'm by no means a plumber.

I read about this, but wasn't sure it was going to work. I was freaking out last night and finally did the epoxy patch. I won't turn it back on until 3 pm or so since that's 12 hrs since I've patched it (I stayed up late trying to figure this out).

If worst case scenario arrives, I'll need to borrow money from my family and re-do the plumbing. I will appreciate your advice as well since, as mentioned before... plumbing isn't my thing. I may ask my dad to help/teach me since now I'm not very sure I can get it done properly.

Thanks everybody for your advice. It's very kind of you.

- Mag.

 

I install a tee or wye in the line to feed the refugium and place a ball valve on that piece not on the main overflow. All it takes is a small snail, piece of food or algae to perch on the partially closed ball valve and stuff collects fast until its completely choked off and floods. Try to keep the overflow unrestricted so nothing obstructs gravity flow to the sump.

One good tip when doing PVC plumbing is apply glue to both fittings, the socket and the pipe, slide it on and rotate it 1/4 turn to distribute the glue evenly. This usually eliminates seeping and pinhole leaks.

 

That's a good point about the valve. There is a T above the valve though, and that pipe, even though it's got a valve as well, stays completely opened and drains on the skimmer section. I should have inverted this and have the box a little more to the left, thus avoiding this problem. I do agree that's not the best plumbing design though. I will read a lot more on that, since in the future I'll work on making things more silent. Like my weir overflow box... I can live with it, but if I can quiet it down a little, I wouldn't mind one bit.

The epoxy leak fix is working very well so far, by the way. If it holds for a week or two, I'd be extremely happy.

Thanks for all your help AZDesertRat. Feel free to suggest any other plumbing or non plumbing changes I could do, since your experience is obviously much more than mine.... to be hones... this one plumbing job is my only experience

Thanks in advance, and good Karma to you for the help!

- Mag.

 

just a thought

okay, I'm just sniffing pvc cement on this one but how about............

mark the spot of the leaks with something

take a file or sandpaper and make some pvc dust

now take some pvc cement (just a drop) and make a little paste with your pvc dust (practice a little first, hell it's just a drop with some free dust)

with a pin or something that works for your leaks, push this stuff in the holes

Theory is the cement softens the dust, the cement that goes in with the paste will soften the area around the leak, the leak will weld shut

Everybody say Halleluah!!!

psst let me know how it works

 

That's a good idea. Fortunately the epoxy fix is holding up very well and there are no more leaks momentarily. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. If the leak comes back, I'll try this method. Seems very feasible.