50 gallon acrylic sea clear drilling & overflow

I recently moved to a new place and have my 40 gallon at home. I picked up a new 50 gallon Seaclear acrylic that I would like to get going and transfer everything over.

Are these internal overflow boxes good? How easy would it be to drill my tank? Should i do it in the corner/middle of the tank?

Aquarium overflow box 700gph

Overflow Box 1500 GPH

Does anyone have any other recommendations on these boxes? I currently have an eshopps overflow setup but i think considering I now live in an apartment and internal overflow/drilled would be better.

Let me know everyone's thoughts please.

Thanks.

 

65 views and no response !?!?!?!?!

Bump

 

Yes GL overflows are find, they are pretty much the norm in DIY purchased kits. I would definitely say dry with an acrylic tank, much more failsafe. Acrylic tanks are much much easier and less nerve wracking to drill than glass but I recommend you follow pretty much the same instructions and do it the same was as glass. Acrylis is easier to drill but pushing to hard or going to fast can scorch the acrylic or heat transfer warcp the acrylic. No it wont do it to the point of causing tank failure but to me do it right is do it right. Theres plenty of youtube on how to do it. Back to you kits, the 700 is plenty.

 

Or...you could look behind Door #2 and make and external O/F, or have one made...one of the things I love most about our 100 gal:

 

Can't and prefer to not do this. I already have purchased the tank and have enough nervousness about drilling a hole....

 

what is the most common fail safe internal overflow. Are the full height boxes that are part of the inside of the tank only full height because the overflow is in the bottom of the tank, as opposed to boxes with the overflow on the back of the tank?

 

i'm leaning towards the herbie overflow method. Is the only difference between this and the bean overflow a 3rd safety pipe in case the emergency drain in the herbie overflow also gets clogged?

I think this shouldnt be too much of an issue for me considering I will be running a RKL with high and low float switches to shut off the return pump. For example, if the main drain (herbie system) got clogged, then the emergency drain also got clogged or couldnt keep up with the return pump), my water level in my return pump would lower as the display fills and the float switch in the sump would trigger and shut off my return pump.

What do you all think?

Thanks.

 

FWIW, the tank had no holes or anything in it when we bought it...we polished it (it was scratched), designed the system, and went at it.

FWIW, you could just use external standpipes with cone strainers on the inside of the DT and call it a day.

 

Definitly could do cone strainers but I like the idea of surface skimming and would like to do a small overflow box in the corner with the Herbie system. My only thing is... how would I adhere an internal overflow box to the inside of the acrylic tank????