6speedchevelle's 75G RR Tank buld

well....

was thinking about it, and wouldn't a straight shot on the return create the most flow out of the overflow??

then I can oversize the pump to handle whatever kind of head pressure I make, and bleed off any extra pressure back into the sump with a Tvalve?

 

are you going to put doors on your stand

 

I will build the doors and hood while the tank is cycling

 

cool

 

so what do you guys recommend for plumbing flexablity?
should I just add a section of spa flex so I can swing things out of the sump/around if i need movement?
or should I use the quick disconnect couplers?

which is quieter?

 

not much going on right now with the tank
finished 90% of the plumbing
waiting on the pump and RO/DI unit....then I can ADD WATER!

 

SOOoooo.............
I bought one of these today...
(the 4000 model though)
BIG MISTAKE!!!
rated at 1017gph (600 at 6ft head)

I had to turn the the Tvalve half way off on the drain just so the pump could keep up

And its FREAKISHLY loud!!

guess thats what I get for trying to save a buck :nuts:
(its getting returned tomorrow)

 

600 gph for a return pump on a 75 isn't too bad. Are you saying you have a valve on your overflow plumbing that you're restricting flow with so that it siphons and doesn't suck air down the overflow and make a bunch of noise/bubbles in the sump?

That can be risky if you don't have an emergency drain, over time the area around the partially closed valve can get gummed up with algae/calcium carbonate deposits/detritus/a snail etc and may start restricting your flow which can cause a gradual backup and eventually a flood.

It looks like you have a durso-type standpipe so that should keep the overflow/drain area of the tank quiet, are you saying the noisy part is the water hitting the sump water? A bubble tower can help with that some, it will also be much quieter once you get doors on the cabinet.
Here's an example of a bubble tower, you can put some live rock rubble in it to help break up bubbles as well. It also keeps salt creep to a minimum.
Melev's Reef - Sump Model A

What I'm planning on for my plumbing is using unions (disconnects) on both the return and overflow plumbing for maintenance. Using a piece of flex tubing on the return right next to the pump so I don't get vibrations through the return plumbing, the rest will be hard-plumbed. Also having 2 drains, one that is a siphon using a gate valve and the second will be open as an emergency in case the siphon drain gets clogged. I'm using the hole that was drilled for my return as the second drain and then plumbing the return over the top of the back of the tank, although it will be hidden with a canopy.

That's my 2 cents, hope that helps or provides some ideas, looking pretty good so far!

 

OK, I got the "gurguling" to go away....but there are still a lot of small bubbles coming down the drain..... normal?
Here is a video (its noisier than the video makes it sound)

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have played with the water levels in both the sump and tank...
here is what I've come up with (very scientific )
the problem exsists when I rely on the return pump only for flow
the over flow is at this level on the duroso pipe


when I use the garden hose in the tank (to imitate a increase return pump flow rate)
and the overflow goes to this level


All the bubbles go away and the drain is totally silent....
therefore....I do not have a big enough pump on the return???
whattaya think?