Advice on switching to wet/dry

Discussion in 'Filters, Pumps, etc..' started by pmanzi, Jul 23, 2005.

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  1. pmanzi

    pmanzi Astrea Snail

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    I currently have a 75g FO system that has 3 fluval 303 and a fluval 404. I am thinking of switching to a wet/dry system and am confused by some of the items out there. My tank is not drilled so I will need to go with an overflow. I found a cheap on on Ebay (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...y=46310&ssPageName=WDVW&rd=1#ebayphotohosting) that seems like it will do the trick. It states that it can do 600gph, but most of the pumps I have found output either over or under that, wont that cause an problem? How do you regulate them so that the inflow matches the outflow? I plan on using an extra tank for the sump and making a the filter itself, it seems like 5 gallons of bio-balls should do for a 75 gallon tank.
    Thanks
     
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  3. Matt Rogers

    Matt Rogers Kingfish

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    To regulate the flow you put a ball valve on the return line. The overflow box does a good job of evening out, so I wouldn't worry too much about it. For the pump I would go with something a little higher and between the head loss from pumping up several feet and the ball valve you should be fine.

    Thanks for joining 3reef. :)
     
  4. Birdlady

    Birdlady Finback Whale

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    Why do you want to switch filtration methods? Wet / Dry can bring its own issues too.... :)
     
  5. pmanzi

    pmanzi Astrea Snail

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    There are several reasons I would like to switch. One of the main reasons for switching is that where my tank is situated you can see in from front and back. Currently there are 8 hoses in the back plus the power for 4 power heads and the thermometer. With the wet dry I would be down to 2 hoses, plus I would not be cleaning 4 canister filters every other week. Finally I have been looking at getting a protein skimmer (the tank is only a few months old and only has 4 fish in it), right now I need a hang on, if I am going to switch filters eventually it is better to do it before I buy a hang on protein skimmer instead of having to replace it at a later date.
     
  6. Birdlady

    Birdlady Finback Whale

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    Well thought out then! ;D
     
  7. Matt Rogers

    Matt Rogers Kingfish

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    A wet/dry for a fish only tank is a great choice. Make sure you get a model that has enough room for a skimmer and skimmer pump. ;) :)
     
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  9. greyhawk

    greyhawk Astrea Snail

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  10. Matt Rogers

    Matt Rogers Kingfish

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    SHe's just touching (i'd bet) on the 'nitrate factory' reputation/label these filters have these days in the coral crowd. Truth is they just don't break down nitrates - they do not produce them. Some say they get dirty and clog, but I've never had that with any of the ones I had. Maybe I just maintained them better. They really require virtually no maintenance. Just change the floss pad on the drip tray now and then.

    FOr coral tanks, they can be unnecessary with adequate live rock to act as a filter, but I have seem impressive coral tanks with them, especially 10 years ago before the internet tumbleweeds began. Today you can still find wet/drys in many nano tank setups that have them built into the back of the tank. And amazingly many of those tanks look good! :tongue4:

    For fish only though, wet/drys rule. I just bought one yesterday for my turtle tank. Goodbye canister. Don't look back.
     
  11. Birdlady

    Birdlady Finback Whale

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    Yup, that is what I was agonna say! Corals are less tolerant of nitrate than fish really. You just need to address nitrate reduction with a wet/dry reef setup..and there are many ways to do that. DSB, Coiled denitrator, water changes. ;D