basics of a protein skimmer

I have had to rethink my original plans, (see blog if you care to, no 20 gal sump with skimmer), so now I must choose a hangon:-[ for my 30 gal tank (plan for 30 lb live rock and eventually some corals, polyps and 3 to 4 fish.

I am terribly disappointed about this almost to the point I don't want to start the tank and have even looked thru the DIY for a sump plan, but feel ill equipped to build one.

I have some basic questions.
1) What is the difference between a needle wheel and a venturi? Is one better than the other?
2) Some offer a "drain" what is this for?
3) Is it sufficient to trust the Mfg's rating for what tank size it is suitable for? Is "more" (meaning rated for a larger tank) better?
4) what makes a skimmer noisy? How do you avoid this?
5) Is shape important?
6) is air injection important and how do I know it is sufficient?

Any other pointers in picking a unit will be appreciated.

Julie

 

First, why can't you have a sump? All you need is a empty tank..... I know so many people that build sumps with baffles everywhere and look so high tech its crazy, I have NEVER used a baffle in either my sumps or 'fuges. If it is strictly a sump have water come in on one side, put in you heater and skimmer and whatever else and on the otherside add your return pump, viola... Sump no baffles!! If you want a sump/'fuge you could make a very simple effeective one with only one baffle. That would entail you going to your local hardware store, asking them to cut you a piece of glass, then getting aquarium silicone and siliconeing the glass in. Then fill one side with sand and plants-'fuge, and the other your equipment- sump. Easy as pie, even though pie isn't always easy.....

As far as skimmers go..needle point ...wheel is the type of impeller in the pump, they typically do a better job at creating a good air water mix in the skimmer.
Venturi is the way air is added to the skimmer, there will be an airline hose that either goes into the pump or the skimmer body that sucks in air. Most skimmers even needlewheels have a venturi.
The drain is to empty the skimmate cup or to have the skimmate cup constantly drain into a larger vessel like a 5 gal bucket, not a make or break part on a skimmer... I wouldn't take the specs like gospel as no two tanks are alike in stocking density and so on, so if you can I would always err that the skimmer is OVERrated. The noise can either come from the air getting sucked in or a pump rattling, some pumps are loud when you first get them but then quiet down.

Shape is VERY important one of the most important aspects along with air intake and pump design. Cones work great but no one really makes them except ATB and that'll out you back a good $900 even for a skimmer for a 30 gal!! On the other side you have a Seaclone that is too tall and skinny to do anygood!! Height is good but too tall necessatates a larger pump with more air intake. Look for a skimmer that is wide but not too wide and not to tall, kind of like the ASM skimmers...

Hope this helps!!

 

Hi Doc

I have the empty tank! If I understand you correctly, I will need to partition this off (that's the baffle right?) with a piece of glass, the tank is 30 x12x12. The partition will be less than 12 in in height so that the water flows over it correct?

On one side will be the skimmer, where the water is coming in from an overflow box, on the other side of the baffle will be my live rock some sand and the return pump ? From reading other posts can I use that flex tubing from overflow box and also from return pump back to main tank?

I can't thank you enough for helping me understand the plumbing here

19 in tall (overall) 3 in diameter too tall and skinny?

 

You technically don't need to put any baffles in your sump. A drain and return is all you really need. Look at berlin sumps in stores - no baffles. Some of us add them for extra levels of security, organization, specialized compartments, etc. I tried HOB on my 30. I hated it, and built a sump. An empty tank with skimmer, heater, etc. inside it will suffice.

 

Zach

I was reading one of your posts concerning a 20 gal sump. Thanks

 

Cool. I love the way mine is setup - the way I have mine is basic, and prevents overflows from either too much water pumping to the display, and the overflow box prevents too much from filling in the sump. Organizes everything neatly as well. You can get pieces of acrylic cut at the home depot (free), get some silicon for under 5 bucks, and within 48 hours (cure time) you're ready to go.

But at the same time, it's not necessary.

Pic of mine below.

 

The baffle in a sump/fuge is to keep the live rock/sand/plants away from your other equipment. Your baffle would divide your sump into 2 parts. One part can hold your fuge with sand etc etc, the other part the equipment you want to put into it, as in skimmer, heater, and return pump.

One side of the baffle contains the sand/ plants/ and stuff so it doesn't go frolicing all over the your expensive water moving equipment (plants in a return pump aren't fun...)
So it'd look something like this:

 

Oh yeah. As stated above, you don't need any baffles at all. I ran a 15g tall with no baffles for months. I have recently started to divide a 20g long into a sump/fuge combo. Then you do need baffles. But you can go down to lowes and get a piece of acrylic to do that. Just cut and silicone into place. Techincally, you shouldn't silicone acrylic to glass (not very strong). But for a sump/fuge it is OK.

But for now, just get the hang of the plumbing, the overflows and the return concept and you will seriously have no trouble at all. It's a lot easier than it looks. Trust me. I was in your shoes last May. I know exactly where you are coming from.

 

Peace.......John.

 

really the only reason for the baffles is to trap air bubbles and stop them from going to the next compartment, but like everyone is stating they are not really needed.