Bronze cut off valve to my ATO's storage container?

I PM'd AzDesRat,

He hasn't got back to me yet.

I'm using a bronze ball valve to fill my storage container with RO/DI.

I open it for about 4g every few days.

If you know for sure that I am leeching Cu into my makeup water, then please let me know. However, If you are not sure that this valve will really provide any worrysome levels- that lets all learn together from someone who knows for sure.

It's not like I'm adding liquid ionic copper to the water, it's bound in the bronze.

I've been using it for a few months now, and eveything seems to be doing well.

 

Great question, Todd_Sails. I've used a bronze valve in my ato since Jan 2010 as well and never noticed any mysterious deaths or any slowed growth on corals. Hopefully a chemist can give us a definitive answer on this.

 

Got curious & looked it up. Only thing I found in a quick search was called bronze disease. But that seems to happen with old coins & antiques. Have to keep an eye on this thread. Good question Todd.

 

When I was shopping fittings, I avoided metal fittings in general. I didn't want to risk it on an off-chance.

 

Thanks guys (Edit) guys and gals: , so far my search has only found this, and it's about Ca reactors for use in Reef Tanks:

What to look for in a regulator assembly… Look for sturdiness and as many bronze components as possible, because steel parts will usually corrode over time if accidentally splashed with saltwater. Look for one with a large diaphragm diameter, usually indicated by a larger diameter body. The larger the gauge’s faceplate, the easier they will be to read, and usually, the more accurate they are. Two inches diameter gauges are my minimum preferred standard. As with the cylinder valve, insure that the fitting for the cylinder matches that required by your region of the world.

 

And, I found this from 2007:

Re: ??tank safe metals??
the only metal that would not react and release chemicals and contaminants into the water is brass or bronze. Anything else will have some sort of reaction to water and be either poisonous or unhealthy for the fish. Ideally, avoid using any metalic fittings and use plastic instead.

 

And Conflictingly, found this one:

So why bring this form of pump to your attention since 99.9% of all hobbyists do not use this type pump? Good question, and the reason is there have been some aquarists that have used this style 'Jacuzzi' or swimming pool pump for their aquariums saying the impeller is saltwater safe, and their higher HP ratings are ideal for their large complex systems. Upon further investigation into these pumps it was found some of them use impellers made of bronze, which is a combination of copper and tin, or brass, which is a combination of copper and zinc. Eventually, erosion and/or oxidation may lead to copper entering the water, which is a death sentence both fish and invertebrates, as they are highly sensitive to this element. Also their seals have limited life spans, and will leak sooner or later depending upon the quality of the unit. Therefore, before going this direction, find out the makeup of its impeller and how much heat the motor transmits to the water flowing past it.

 

RO/DI water is actually fairly corrosive. In an industrial setting, we would only use stainless steel or PVC/CPVC to transport it. It will chew through black iron or carbon steel.

Copper corrosion changes with pH and its ideal pH range is 8.8-9.2 (minimum corrosion). The thing with DI water is that it has zero alkalinity to buffer and just a little bit of CO2 from the air will cause your pH to drop as it forms carbonic acid. You can expect some copper corrosion if your pH is below 8.0 and definitely if you get below 7.5. I don't know if it's dangerous levels, but there will be corrosion.

The safest option would be to go with a PVC/CPVC valve.

 

It only 'sees' 0TDS RO/DI water- and yes I realize it's more corrsosive technically.

I may change it out for a plastic one, but this one is so easy to use and only turns 90 degrees open to shut.

 

The 0 TDS is the problem and it's not technically more corrosive. It IS more corrosive.

Understand the ease of use issue, but I personally wouldn't risk hundreds of dollars in livestock on a $5-$25 valve (not sure what size you need). You should be able to find a PVC ball valve that works just as easily.

Cepex Ball Valve - Bulk Reef Supply

Two Little Fishies Micro Ball Valves (Bag of 6) - Bulk Reef Supply

Two Little Fishies Barbed Ball Valves - Bulk Reef Supply