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Discussion in 'Show Off Your Fish Tanks!' started by Michael Pollard, Jun 6, 2014.

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  1. Billme

    Billme Eyelash Blennie

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    Light: the corals depend on light energy to survive. They have to have the right amount and quality of light to be healthy.
    Testing: the calcium, ect. Is if you have the type of corals or clam that uses several chemicals. These have to be monitored asks replaced. If you only get "soft" corals you won't have to worry about it. The important chems for now are ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate.
    Live rock and live sand: live rock comes with lots of little creatures on it. When it's shipped and put into a new environment, things die. That gives off ammonia. The ammonia needs to decompose all the way to nitrates before the trank is suitable for critters. At least 4 weeks. I prefer 8 weeks.
    By the way, ask all the questions you want. People here are great about helping out. Rather see you successful than frustrated.
     
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  3. Michael Pollard

    Michael Pollard Astrea Snail

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    I'm planning on using an ATI Coral Plus and an ATI Blue Plus. Would those two work, or do I need two more of something different?

    So with the rocks, how do I cure them? Do I wait 4-8 weeks to put them in the tank?

    So yes or no to the reef testing kit?

    Thanks! :)
     
  4. Billme

    Billme Eyelash Blennie

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    Lights: I can't advise you on florescent. I use LED's.
    Rock: the way to cure is to put them in the tank with circulating water for 4 to 8 weeks.
    I would wait on the reef test kit. However, i suggest getting some opinion's on the quality of the ammonia and nitrate kit you are using. Some kits are junk.
     
  5. sailorguy

    sailorguy Torch Coral

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    The Eshopps RS75 sump and Eshopps 300gph hang on back overflow are what I am using for my 40b and they have been working just fine for over a year.However,a drilled tank and larger sump would be nice to have.A larger sump such as a 20long would have plenty of room for a refugium if I so desired.I currently use a reactor with biopellets and no refugium.Adrilled tank with well designed overflow simply works better than the HOB models and is more foolproof.A coulple of things FYI,to use a 20long as your sump when using a 36" x18" stand which is standard with a 40b,the sump must be lowered into place from above before the tank is in place.Tanks of the 40b size are not available predrilled,you would need to drill it yourself and construct your own overflow or purchase used from someone who has.You could however go a bit larger and use a 65 which is available reef ready,drilled and overflow in place,and it has the same 36x18 footprint.The extra volume would also be really beneficial.
     
  6. Billme

    Billme Eyelash Blennie

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    Just have to say Michael, you are doing the right thing asking as many questions up front as you can. You can easily save money and frustration doing it this way.
     
  7. Servillius

    Servillius Montipora Digitata

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    You're likely going to need 4 bulbs worth of t5 for a beginner reef. If you have two now though, don't worry about it for now. Use the two bulb light and add another fixture when you need it (with one more coral plus and one more blue plus bulb, no need to get fancy yet).

    As for curing, it's my understanding that's something you do before adding a lot of rock to an estBlished tank. With a new setup, curing is not generally necessary. It's part of the initial cycle. If you're exceedingly patient, it may be beneficial to cure just to keep your initial setup cleaner.
     
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  9. oldfishkeeper

    oldfishkeeper Giant Squid

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    yes, in terms of your rock, are you planning on purchasing live rock or base rock or a little of each? If you buy live rock, you won't need to cure it as stated - it can start your cycle...if you use dry rock, you will want it to cycle as well - in either circumstance, you put it right into the tank when you start. I'd suggest that you buy 1/2 and 1/2 - live rock is very cool in terms of the life that comes on it - although you can get some stuff you don't want so always a little risk that dry rock doesn't have. The dry rock will colonize with bacteria from the live rock and your cycle.......

    I agree in that you are doing things right by asking questions. We love to help others experience this wonderful hobby :) we've also all had things we wished we would have done differently or things we wished we would have never done! :)

    oops, forgot - get the saltwater master kit - API is a good starter pack until you get rolling. It has the basics that you will need.
     
  10. Michael Pollard

    Michael Pollard Astrea Snail

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    I'm using an overflow down to my 10 gal. Then a return pump. I can't afford a 65 gal. :)

    Me and my dad made a 40 gal stand tonight that should eliminate a lot of those problems!

    So, a 4 bulb fixture is what I need. So, do I need two of each of the ATI Coral Plus and an ATI Blue Plus? Thank you for the info!

    Well if half and half is better, I'll most likely do that. How many pounds do I need for a 40 gal?
    I have the master kit already :)
     
  11. Michael Pollard

    Michael Pollard Astrea Snail

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    Today's update:

    I have the stand 80% done! Me and my dad built one that should work perfectly for my set up. I'll post pictures when it's done.

    I plan on going to a reef store near my area that I found online tomorrow. Hopefully they'll have some of the supplies I need.

    Thanks again everyone :)
     
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  12. Servillius

    Servillius Montipora Digitata

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    Please do post the picks, I'm looking forward to seeing them.

    1. There are a lot of bulb combinations that work, but two coral plus and two blue plus will work great.
    2. I would go with about 30lbs of rock depending on how dense it is. Half and half is certainly cheaper which is a nice bonus. If you buy online, check out bulk reef supply or macro rock who I think are both sponsors here.