Can you attach a T5 retrofit under a canopy?

Discussion in 'T5 Aquarium Lighting' started by KY_Tanked, Jun 13, 2009.

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  1. KY_Tanked

    KY_Tanked Fire Worm

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    I built my canopy 10" high off of the water (alot of room inside) and was wondering if I could attach a retrofit under my canopy. T5 6 Bulb like this one? http://www.reefgeek.com/lighting/T5...y_High-Output_Retrofit_Kit_w!_Bulbs_by_IceCap

    I know it does not have a fan, but I was going to use 4 pc fans (clip on kind) at each end.
    Would that work or could a fire be in the future? I am worried about the heat transfer to the wood. Could I cover the wood with aluminum sheets?

    Sry for all the questions!

    thanks!
     
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  3. PackLeader

    PackLeader Giant Squid

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    Yes, that is what retrofits are designed for.
     
  4. KY_Tanked

    KY_Tanked Fire Worm

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    No worries about the heat?
    Also since I made my canopy so high off the water will I lose a lot of my light value? Going from a 24" deep tank to like a 30" or more?

    What retrofit kits are the best?

    Thanks!
     
  5. Dr.Fragenstein

    Dr.Fragenstein Panda Puffer

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    I wouldn't mount the retro to the canopy for the reasons stated in the PM but to you others that are reading this for ideas, having a retro mounted to the canopy is no bueno for a few reasons, A. you want the lamps as close to the water as possible, why pay to light the air and waste lamp life? B. If and when you need to take the canopy off to access the tank, the canopy will be heavy, cumbersome and you will have VERY thin lamps the break easily in there, do you REALLY want to do that?
    I would recommend making a frame of sorts that fits under the canopy and mount the retro to that. I used 1"x3"s, as they are cheap and did the job. Once the frame was built I coated the frame with Spar varnish to water proof it.

    I would just get some premade kit many online gigs offer, but you probably don't need the IC ballasts unless you really choose to OD the lamps, Workhorse ballasts will be fine. Try to get Aquactinic SLRs as they are only 2" wide and you can cram more lamps in that way.

    Good luck
     
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  6. KY_Tanked

    KY_Tanked Fire Worm

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    I guess I still have a couple of questions. When I look at the pricing for the Tek retro the price is almost the same as buying the already built light.
    Is there any advantage on retro? There is no splash guard is that a problem?

    Also when I look at Tek here for $599.00 http://www.reefgeek.com/lighting/T5...tput_Retrofit_Kit_w!_Bulbs_by_Sunlight_Supply

    What is the difference between something like this for $379.00
    Buildyouraquarium - 48'' 8X 54 T5 Retro Brand New w/ Bulbs Moon Aquarium

    Neither fixture has splash guards or fans...?

    John
     
  7. Screwtape

    Screwtape Tonozukai Fairy Wrasse

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    How deep is your tank and what are you planning on keeping? That will help determine what lights you want.

    IceCap reflectors are pretty much top of the line and their ballasts are more expensive because they overdrive those 54 watt bulbs to about 80 watts, make sure you need that much light and that you have fans because overdriven bulbs should be cooled directly by fans. If you throw these things on a shallower tank you will need to keep lots of high light coral because they will fry a lot of lower light coral.

    That Tek link is 8bulbs that's why it's more in line with the 6 bulb IceCap retro price, the 6 bulb Tek is much cheaper but also the reflectors are wider and don't penetrate as deep as the IceCap reflectors and they aren't overdriven ballasts.

    With the BYA lights I've heard you get what you pay for, meaning they aren't the best but that's just what I've heard. I wouldn't buy them personally just because they misspelled cord on their site. :) Also that page is a mixture of 8 bulb and 10 bulb info, confusing. I'm picky about that stuff I guess, doesn't instill a lot of confidence.

    It all really depends whether you want or need to pay for the performance of the more expensive retro's. I don't think splash guards are necessary, at least I've never seen anyone use them with retro kits, just clean off the bulbs and reflectors regularly with a wet cloth.
     
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  9. KY_Tanked

    KY_Tanked Fire Worm

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    Screwtape,

    I have a 90g tank DT. I made the canopy about 10" inside above the water.
    http://www.3reef.com/forums/show-of...ete-build-stand-canopy-drilled-etc-66327.html

    I do like the IC setup, but I thought I read somewhere that when they are overdrive that the bulbs need to be replaced more often? That is the only part that bothers me. (someone said every three months?)
    For fans would you use the clip on pc fans? I have 2 sets of 2 of those...?

    I want to keep my options open as far as corals. Frogspawn, Hammer, Mushrooms, Zoos and someday a Clam.
    What would you suggest for the right size bulbs or watts??
    thanks!

    John
     
  10. Dr.Fragenstein

    Dr.Fragenstein Panda Puffer

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    IceCap reflectors are pretty much top of the line-Aquactinics used to make them for IC, go with the Aquactinic version....

    also the reflectors are wider and don't penetrate as deep as the IceCap reflectors
    Teks SLRs in the unit are 2" wide, the retros are 3" wide, SLS made them wider since they said they were hearing feedback that the 2" weren't covering a large enough spread.
    As far as penetrating power....Screwtape were did you come up with this, any sources?
     
  11. Dr.Fragenstein

    Dr.Fragenstein Panda Puffer

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    While I am not screwtape, I think I can help....
    OD lamps if properly cooled can easily last a year.
    For what you want to keep the OD lamps will be overkill, stick with ND lamps unless you want a SPS dominated tank, the LPS will NOT like the intensity of the IC driven lamps.
     
  12. KY_Tanked

    KY_Tanked Fire Worm

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    Ok, so no OD IC retro's. So what should I go with for the corals that I want? 6 bulb or 8 bulb ND, Or do I go with the IC ND retro?

    Just give me what you think is best!;D

    John