Can you help me pick a RODI system..

Discussion in 'New To The Hobby' started by CMC53, Feb 20, 2012.

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  1. CMC53

    CMC53 Astrea Snail

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    Thanks I'm going to do that now..
     
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  3. AZDesertRat

    AZDesertRat Giant Squid

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    The MaxCap is the better system.
    It includes specially treated then 100% individually hand tested and guaranteed in writing to be bettre than 98% rejection rate RO membranes versus treated then batch tested membranes with their standard warranty.

    The MaxCap also includes dual DI with the MaxCap DI resin first then the SilicaBuster so the SilicaBuster last 3+ times longer and costs you less to operate.

    It also includes two dual inline TDS meters for four monitoring locations while the CSPDI has one for two monitoring locations.

    As far as chloramines, you do not want nor need two carbon blocks, this is very old school, back when carbon technology was not as refined as today.You also do not need special catalytic or chloramine carbons, they don't provide any benefit at normal drinking water levels. One 0.5 micron 20,000 gallon carbon block is more than sufficient when it is protected by the 0.5 or 0.2 micron absolute rated sediment filter Spectrapure uses. Many comoanies use less efficient or much higher micron sediment filters so they use the first carbon as a sacrificial filter to make up for what the sediment filter does not do. Again, old school.


    Spectrapure has done extensive testing and found chloramines are very misunderstood. Its the ammonia portion that is the killer, not the chlorine portion which is easily handled like I said above. It takes very good DI resin and good contact time to get the ammonia since all membranes are marginal at all forms of ammonia including nitrates and nitrites. All their RO/DI systems are good for chlorine or chloramines standard with no special filters needed.

    A water quality report is a good rough guide but not necessarily accurate for your water conditions. It is a "snapshot in time" meaning it was an average of the water sources and conditions at the time the samples were taken, historical information by the time you receive it and conditions change.
     
  4. CMC53

    CMC53 Astrea Snail

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    Wow Great advice. Thank you so much for the in depth reply. I will take your advice and go with the second link then.. The 180 Max Cap..
     
  5. AZDesertRat

    AZDesertRat Giant Squid

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    I owned the dual membrane MaxCap for several years and it was an awesome system. It replaced a Typhoon III and my DI life went from 150 gallons per cartridge to 830 gallons on the very first replacement and over 1000 gallons on every replacement afterwards.

    I now own the MaxCap UHE 100 ultra low waste system and get 120 GPD out of it with the same or better DI life but less than 1:1 waste ratio.
     
  6. CMC53

    CMC53 Astrea Snail

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    K sounds great! But what is a Typhoon III? Is that an aftermarket filter?
    Also with the spectra Pure Max Cap system, is it "Plug and play"? Or do I need other parts, fittings, or fliters?

    Thanks..
     
  7. AZDesertRat

    AZDesertRat Giant Squid

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    The Typhoon III was Air Water & Ices top of the line RO/DI at the time.
    The MaxCap comes with a hose thread adapter which can screw to a hose bib, garden hose or many laundry sink faucets without an adapter. You can get a kitchen or bathroom faucet adapter for like $12-$13 I believe.

    I have mine mounted on the wall above my laundry sink and have it plumbed to the washing machine cold water supply using a brass garden hose wye with built in ball valves for isolation if I want to shut it off.

    The only thing you will need to do is flush the filters and membrane then measure the waste ratio and trim the capillary tube flow restrictor according to the included instructions if necessary to adjust the waste ratio, thats it.

    It comes with a pressure gauge and two dual inline TDS meters so you are set to make water.
     
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  9. CMC53

    CMC53 Astrea Snail

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    Ok great! Thanks again for all of the info. You were a big help.