Chiller Flow Rate/Energy Consumption Question

Discussion in 'General Reef Topics' started by ReefSparky, Aug 10, 2009.

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  1. ReefSparky

    ReefSparky Super Moderator

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    I'm not planning on putting it all through the chiller. I'm going to take Otty's advice and utilize some type of manifold. I'll research just how I'm going to do it beforehand. I'm thinking perhaps a short length of 4" PVC coming off the top of the new pump, and different taps coming off that using T's. I'll keep a few for future, just capped off. This way, I can regulate with valves the flow rate to everything, including return to the DT.
     
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  3. Otty

    Otty Giant Squid

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  4. Powerman

    Powerman Giant Squid

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    I would think 4" would be huge. 2" is good. Plenty of fittings for that. I use 1" on my return pumbing. You don't need huge pipes to run appropriate flow. An enlarged manifold is good though for good distribution to all lines. Increasing to 2" or 4" will ensure all lines get good supply without another one starving a downstream line. Those are nice manifolds Otty turned you on to. You will make a nice clean systen with room to expand.
     
  5. Robman

    Robman Great White Shark

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    Sparky---I use a rio 2100 about 40.00 at Marine Depot
     
  6. Marian

    Marian Plankton

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    Connections & Connectors

    Sparky,

    I am building a stand for a new 60g cube and I am at the plumbing stage.
    Keep in mind that a chiller works the best (max efficiency) on the return line. When you do the plumbing do not use 90 deg. connectors. They will cut your return flow and your tank will not be happy with. Instead use two 45 deg so flow will suffer less.
    Also, I don't think a manifold is a good idea unless you have a powerful external pump. Whatever you do plan in advance for the possibility to bypass the chiller when needed.

    hope it helps,
    Marian

    For my setup I have a 60g cube and a 20g sump. I plan on using a Slitz L40 (Hydor, ~700 GPH) return pump. The pump will drive using around 50g my phosban reactor and the UV sterilizer and the rest will return to tank through the chiller.
     
  7. reef_guru

    reef_guru Humpback Whale

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    the flow rate is 480-600 gph

    under 480 gph the system freezes up, over 600 gph the chiller does not have enough time to work and will constantly stay on. the ca3000 runs around 1000 gph which is to much for this chiller. i recommend the gen-x pcx 20 or the gen-x pcx 30 for an external pump.

    also, i would not split the line ( manifold, T ) going to the chiller, have one pump supply the chiller and nothing else. i also would not have the main tanks drain supply the chiller. your options are a closed loop in the tank/sump or the main pump for the system, the best option depends on where most of your water is.
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2009
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  9. ReefSparky

    ReefSparky Super Moderator

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    This is innacurate. I first saw the numbers you report on Marine Depot's website, and they are wrong when compared to the paperwork that comes with the chiller, guru.

    I haven't checked, but I wonder if the other online vendors report this innacuracy as well.

    For what it's worth, here are the numbers for any interested--this is the JBJ Arctica line of titanium chillers. Owner's Manual dated 11-2007.

    Model/HP Flow Rate in GPH Min/Max.
    DBM-250/ 1/3 HP 480/2400
    DBE-200/ 1/4 HP 480/1920
    DBA-150/ 1/5 HP 480/1320
    DBA-075/ 1/10HP 240/960


    Additionally, the CA3000 runs 1,000GPH at 0' head. A chiller adds 6' of head from what I read from an online source (a vendor, but not Marine Depot). The CA3000 at 6' is where I derive my 600 GPH numbers from.


    BTW, is your tank full of water yet?
     
  10. reef_guru

    reef_guru Humpback Whale

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    think what you want, my 1/2 hp chillers max is 1500 gph, i looked at jbj's website with your numbers, their generic.

    depending on your set up ill agree, not all chillers add 6' of head, not all pumps have enough power to push the water. so, the ca3000 is probably ok for that chiller, ill take back what i said.

    what are the in/out line sizes?
    if its 3/4" you can only get 1400-2100 gph depending on the psi range from 20-100. most aquarium pumps run around 5-20 psi. the chillers internal lines also restrict flow. again, there is no way to get 2400 gph threw that chiller without blowing something apart.
     
    Last edited: Aug 12, 2009
  11. Powerman

    Powerman Giant Squid

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    Two 45s give the same loss as one 90. Using 45s instead of 90s does not cut down on friction loss.
     
  12. ReefSparky

    ReefSparky Super Moderator

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    I have no intention of putting 2,400 GPH through my chiller. I'd shoot for maybe 1,200--right in the middle, as Otty suggests. Being in the electrical field and having a fair amount of experience with field sensors and other instruments, shooting for the middle is almost always the most desirable scenario for which to shoot. There's a reason equipment comes with ranges, as I'm sure you're aware.

    JBJ's website coincides exactly with their owner's manual. They both say 480-2400. While I respect your opinion very much, I think I'm going to stick with the manufacturer's spec's over your opinion this go around.

    I'm not clear on what you're saying when you state those numbers are generic. If you mean "in general," are you saying that the numbers they recommend are wrong?

    I didn't measure the input/outputs of the chiller when I was installing the lines, but if I had to guess, I'd say the rubber bodies upon which the connector sits are perhaps between 3/4" and 7/8" but I could be wrong.

    You state that your 1/2 HP chiller's max is 1500. Is your chiller a JBJ? I think the deciding factor is the ID of the internal plumbing inside the device itself. That's where the bottleneck would be, and that I can't see without opening the unit up, so I'll have to defer comment.

    Really, buddy--the statement "think what you want" makes you either pretty arrogant, or a friggin rocket scientist. You got a PhD from MIT that I don't know about? :)
     
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