Cutting glass baffles

Imagine a 10 gallon tank with 4 to5 inches of very aragonite or kitty litter and a bunch of algae and a hole just under the top rim and then on one end to drain to sump and a little 1/2 CPVC pipe on the opposite side /end ran all the way to just above the sand bed with 2 90's to point back up so not to disturb the sand and thats to fill the water at a slow trickle . Otty posted a pi.k of his I think yesterday thats how I do them and I think I may have gotten him to do his that away hence the photo. Look under the sump Baffle string or sump build ? Its just a 10 Gal box with water and a lamp.

 

Tangster, I searched with the strings and username you suggested, but found nothing. Just get me a pic when you can--if you can.

 

Cutting glass is really easy, just finished the baffles for my refugium/sump. On my cutter the lubricant is in the handle of the glass "cutter" (scores the glass actually). You can use pretty much anything to ensure a straight cut (i used a piece of wood). Measure up your piece, place the wood along the cut and ensure your wheel is on the line. Get someone to hold the wood down so it doesnt move because you only really have one shot at scoring the glass properly. Score the glass, you're not trying to put the wheel through the glass. Don't score quite to the end because running the wheel off the end can crack and break the glass. Gently tap the bottom of the glass (i use the other side of the cutter) and you'll see the glass begin to seperate along the score. Make sure you're holding both sides of the glass so one doesnt drop on the floor (I've been there). Dont use your hand to put presure on the glass as this lead to uneven pressure in the glass and can cause your glass to break into more pieces if the pane is big enough. I have a pair of special pliars (i think that's how you spell it) that came with my cutters that you place on one end of score if your glass is being stubborn. Mostly it should come apart from tapping it. I have done a lot stained glass and broken a lot of pieces so hopefully that helps if you havent done it already! GL and go slow, when glass breaks its usually into pieces that are unusably small for what you are doing.

 

I'll see if the boss will do one when she gets home I don't do cameras Otty had one here somewhere ..Refugiums have been thought and reinvented so much I get confused with them.. If the wheel ain't broke don't try to fix it is my motto..

 

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Thanks a lot for the good advice. I'm going to purchase and cut it tomorrow.

 

Well, I just read all 19 pages of your build thread and all I can say is HOLY SHNIKES!! (I don't know if I spelled that right, from Tommy Boy). Beautiful work, David!!

Your thread gives me mixed emotions about pressing on at my current scale/scheme. My wife and I are moving probably to the MidWest in about 3 years. I have a 55 gal on the cusp of becoming a reef tank. After seeing your progress, and getting familiarized with the "guts" of a large system such as yours, I wonder if I should even bother maxing out a 55 gal tank with only hang on back overflows to a full-blown reef tank.

This glass cutting I'm about to do is to make a mini-refugium out of a 10 gal tank!!

My next purchase was to be the Aquactinics TX5 with 5 T5's. That'll be over $550 with decent bulbs. I'm kinda getting mixed vibes here. All this just to have a tiny piece of reef for 3 years. . . ya know?

When we move, I'm going to be using my 55 for a refugium--and that will just be the start. Making my own live rock, building a retro kit with MHs and T5's, etc. . .

At the risk of turning a shoulder to your signature, Dngspot, I'm suddenly full of doubt. . .

 

This is a pic of dngspot's 75g refugium, which I'm completely copying.

Is it true to say that baffle "B" is the ultimate determining factor of water level over the main area of the 'fuge, and that consequently baffle "A" can be cut so it descends down another few inches without affecting water level?


Thanks, all!;D

 

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