Cyano Nightmare II

Alright well I know how to get rid of cyano but in my case I have no idea how.
Im sure some of you saw my previous posts about sands. I have a super super fine sand that fly's all over the place when theres a bit of current at the bottom of the tank. So yeah, theres no flow down there and if I add flow down there, then sand storm! Yesterday I got so sick of seeing cyano so I added flow at bottom of tank, and there was sand all over the place, I had to stop it, Cyano is gone for now, but I know they will be back because theres no flow down there once again. What do I do?

Live stock-
1 coral beauty 2 clown fish
6 hermit crab, 1 turbo snail, 1 something snail lol

Water param-
Nitrite: 0
Nitrate: 0
Amonia: 0
Calcium: 480
Salinity: 1.023
Ph:7.8


This water test was from 3 weeks ago from LFS, I don't own a water test kit so Im pretty limited when it comes to water testing, and I did not do a water change yet. The tank is 11 months old.

 

does your cyano look like snot?

You need to get your alk up by adding buffer (KH which is not tested needs to be about 14 or so to kill the cyano (or dino..which it might be). If I took a guess at your Kh I bet it is around 6 based on your pH. Kill the lights for a week or so. CUT DOWN THE NUTRIENTS....cut back on feeding, kill lights, add phosban reactor if not already. Move the powerhead back up and angle it down slightly bouncing it off the front of the glass. Stiring the sand up to where it blows every where just increases the nutrients! It is a pain in the butt to take care of...good luck

DO NOT BUFFER UNLESS YOU HAVE YOUR OWN KH AND PH TEST KIT!

 

kill the light for a week? Like dont turn on the light for a week? Wouldnt that affect my corals as well?

 

You could also top the sand off with a coarser sand
I used Seaflor Special Grade Reef Sand



The picture show grains that are bigger than what comes in the bag, but of course, this is based on my one and only experience with 2x 40 pound bags. According to carib-sea grains are 1.0 and 2.0 mm. Unless the power heads are aiming directly at it, you won't have any movement. My sand shifts every now and then if I move my power heads, but it never gets on the water column any higher than a quarter inch when it's moved by flow or fish trying to eat food that landed on it.

CaribSea Dry Aragonite | Aragamax Sugar Sized Sand | Aragamax Select | Seaflor Special Grade Reef Sand | Fiji Pink Reef Sand | Flamingo Reef Sand | Bermuda Pink | Grand Bahamas Biome | Super Reef

I also had a small cyano problem because I had only 1 power head. Added a MJ-600 with the sure flow mod and have not seen any cyano bacteria since.

Good luck!

- Mag.

 

Cyano Nightmare II Revenge Of The bacteria

 

nope they will be just fine. I had mine off for 10 days when I had a dino outbreak. It is a natural experience in the wild for corals to be without light for a while. When you turn the lights back on just turn them back on slowly and reacclimate them

 

To add to everyone else's suggestions, I highly recommend that you invest in a reef test kit. You need to keep a closer check on those parameters. Also keep in mind that as long as you have cyano, dino, or any other type algae feeding on nitrates and/or phosphates, they will always test at or near zero.

One more idea~ If you only have a shallow sand bed, you could add a sand-sifter. Some type of sleeper goby would work great for sifting and cleaning the sand.

Cheers and good luck!

 

nasarius snails or sand sifting stars would help keep the sand turned

 

well I ll do everything as stated above, and probably get my self some aragonite sand.
And reduce some lighting. Sounds good?

 

good luck! It is very frustrating I know, hang in there