Cyano

Discussion in 'Algae' started by LCP136, Nov 20, 2011.

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  1. LCP136

    LCP136 Sailfin Tang

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    I can't figure out how to beat cyano. I do not have many algae problems, but cyanobacteria has started to take over my tank. I added a powerhead to increase flow which has helped some, but I would like to totally eradicate it. I don't have detectible nitrates or phosphates. I use regular Instant Ocean salt, although I am planning to switch to H2Ocean soon, and I use RO/DI. Any ideas on what can cause it and how I can eliminate it?
     
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  3. Reefing Madness

    Reefing Madness Skunk Shrimp

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    Whats your TDS on your RO? You dosing anything? Whats your feeding schedule in the tank?
    Since cyanobacteria is a bacteria, fish medications can be an affective way to kill it. Find a medication containing erythromycin. Check at your local fish store, look on the backs of the bottles of anti-bacterial medications and find one that has erythromycin. Dose as directed. This will usually kill your cyanobacteria. It starts slowly disappearing after a day or two and then keeps fading away. Erythromycin will also kill other bacteria in your tank so don't use it lightly. You'll need to carefully watch your tank when using it to make sure the whole thing doesn't start going way down hill. Do as many water changes as the medication allows and when your all done do some more. You'll have to watch your tank carefully for several weeks after using an anti bacterial in case you start to get other problems from the loss of the rest of your tank bacteria
     
  4. sticksmith23

    sticksmith23 Giant Squid

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    UV sterilizer! I just got one myself. The UV radiation will kill the bacteria from I have read. Also you can use Chemiclean Red Slime Algae Remover. I've used that before and it worked awesome.
     
  5. LCP136

    LCP136 Sailfin Tang

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    I run a UV, but the problem with Cyano is that it is not free floating, it is benthic, so it will not go through the filter. Chemiclean does work great, but its a bandaid. The cyano will come back eventually.
     
  6. sticksmith23

    sticksmith23 Giant Squid

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    You are right that it will come back, but you just need to get your phosphates in check and you shouldn't have a problem. Most likely the reason why you have zero detectable phosphates is because the cyano is using your source of phosphates up.You could also try getting a reactor and running bio pellets.
     
  7. LCP136

    LCP136 Sailfin Tang

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    So what would a source of phosphates be. I use 0 TDS RO water and IO salt. Where do the phosphates come from. I feed a cube of frozen about 6 days a week and dried nori for the tang.
     
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  9. sticksmith23

    sticksmith23 Giant Squid

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    That is a very good question. I would say from your frozen food. Members here always tell me to strain my frozen food before feeding it because they contain phosphates. I have always just taken their word for it and haven't really researched it myself. Other then that hopefully a more experienced member can chime in.
     
  10. NanaReefer

    NanaReefer Fu Manchu Lion Fish

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    IMO feeding any frozen 6 days a week is WAY to much. 2 x a week is more then plenty when added with a good brand flake or pellet. Are you rinsing your frozen? Do you thaw or just throw the cube in the tank? Are you running a skimmer? How old are your bulbs? Cyno is an excess nutrient issue. You could do the 72 hour black out method, just to help get it under control. Chemiclean does work great! But I also agree that you must find the source. How old is your tank?
     
  11. LCP136

    LCP136 Sailfin Tang

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    Tank is 3 years old, I have 6x54 watt t5 bulbs that are about 6 months old. I think my best bet will be to cut frozen down to 2-3 times per week. Any recommendations on flake foods?
     
  12. Reefing Madness

    Reefing Madness Skunk Shrimp

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    Yup......NO FLAKE FOODS. ;)