Cycling update

Discussion in 'General Reef Topics' started by goody, Oct 24, 2007.

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  1. sssnake

    sssnake Montipora Digitata

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    Yup!

    If your water params are good meaning 0's for ammonia & nitrites and as close to zero (less than 5) for nitrates you're basically good to go. Add the first inhabitant.

    If your nitrates are high (over 20) then a water change may be needed.
     
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  3. Otty

    Otty Giant Squid

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    You need to be checking for everything not just Ammonia, Nitrate, and Nitrites.
    I was told you should add one fish on a new tank every two weeks, now that also depends on the size of the fish. Corals you can add because they are not a bio load.
    By adding only one fish you are allowing the bacteria to increase in the tank to handle the load you just put on it. You may see the water get a little cloudy but should go away in less then 72 hrs. Some people will tell you that you can add all kinds of fish right now but to me I have plenty of time and was in no hurry. Patience will help you have a healthly tank if you practice it.
     
  4. goody

    goody Astrea Snail

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    I took a water sample to my lfs and they tested my water. Below are the numbers compared to my readings from my API test kit.

    lfs readings:ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate <20, pH 8.0, Ca 420, Salinity 1.024

    My readings: ammonia 0, nitrite 0, nitrate 20, pH 8.2, Salinity 1.024

    My lfs sold me on Kent Marine ProBuffer dKH, he said it would raise my pH level. I also bought some tests strips so I could compare my readings with the API kit whenever I took readings at home.

    Well, I added the buffer and waited a day to use my tests strips, which also measures Hardness and Alkalinity-two new measurements.

    Alk 120, pH 8.0 and Hardness measured 300ppm, but that is comparing to the freshwater color chart because they don't list saltwater hardness. Is this something I should measure for saltwater?:-/ It does say that hardness is a measure of calcium and magnesium in water, but the lfs measured my calcium and said it was good at 420. Does this mean I have a problem with my magnesium level? Should I buy a magnesium test kit? What else should I be testing for (Iodine, Strontium, etc...)? I plan on having some fish and mainly soft corals and LPS. All will slooooowly be added.
    Also, since my pH is still reading low, should I continue to add the buffer?:confused:

    Thanks
     
  5. BluePhish

    BluePhish Teardrop Maxima Clam

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    otty good call i just add my first fish and my tank got that cloudyness it went away almost exactly 72 hrs.
     
  6. Otty

    Otty Giant Squid

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    You might as well take those test strips and throw them in the trash, ok for FW but not for SW.
    Invest some money and buy your own test kits. I find it hard to trust most LFS because most are out to sell you something to make a fast buck.
     
  7. goody

    goody Astrea Snail

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    Okay. I'll use up the twenty-five it came with, but I do have the API test kit already, which tests my Ammonia, Nitrite, Nitrate, and pH. What other water parameters should I be testing for and which kits do you recommend? Again, I plan on adding some fish plus soft corals and LPS?
     
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  9. Otty

    Otty Giant Squid

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    I use Salifert. Magnesium, Calcium, ALK, Phosphate & Iodine could help for starters.
     
  10. goody

    goody Astrea Snail

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    Thanks Otty for all of your replies. I will go out and buy those test kits.