Dino or cyano..can you tell

Discussion in 'General Reef Topics' started by Piano10, Sep 24, 2015.

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  1. Piano10

    Piano10 Aiptasia Anemone

    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2015
    Messages:
    581
    Wow, lots to answer.

    My tank is about 11 feet away from a sliding door. I keep the verticals closed on it most days but it does get some indirect light from it if I open them.

    I am not sure what NOPOX is? I use io salt with my ro water, thats it. I blow off my rocks, change floss, vacuum... I was adding a few drops of zooplankton weekly but stopped that.

    I know algae is normal and not an issue until its out of control, I don't want it getting out of control so I am getting on this now.

    Oh I understand my system is young. I was explaining the length of time this has been occuring for diagnostic purposes. I originally thought they were diatoms only because it seems to bloom after I add or change something.

    Its not slimy, no bubbles(unless a micro bubble lands on it), only on sand/some glass, looks like a web like dusting. I can't pick it up or syphon it in sheets. I've seen cyano in stores, the red stuff, it doesn't look like that at this point.

    My nitrates while cycling went as high as 20 on one test kit and 10 on the other. My results are the lightest pink in the bottle so I say 5 or less now and not once has my phos test ever showed results(could be being absorbed?)

    I am considering removing a clown, he's very aggressive so that will lower the bioload.

    Lower feeding ( i did every other day in my 55 and it helped)

    Should I lower the light schedule from 10hrs to 6 for now?

    Is there a media recommended to help with nitrates/nutrients
     
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  3. Vinnyboombatz

    Vinnyboombatz Giant Squid

    Joined:
    Oct 24, 2010
    Messages:
    6,344
    Location:
    Dunnellon, Florida
    8 hour light schedule is good. You are correct that nutrients are locked up in algae so as it begins to die those nutrients are released into the water column.This is why manual removal is preferred.Also most phosphate kits are inaccurate at detecting low levels.There are many choices in chemical media. Gfo is common for phosphate removal. The most effective way to use it is via a reactor.There is not a good simple binding way to remove nitrate from seawater so a good wc regimen is recommended. It will take some time for nutrients to be released from rocks and the sand so don't get discouraged if you don't see immediate results. If you are removing more then you are introducing eventually you should see a clean system. Corals will absorb nutrients as well.
     
  4. Hoopastank

    Hoopastank Spaghetti Worm

    Joined:
    Jul 6, 2015
    Messages:
    177
    Location:
    South Florida
    I have been dealing with the same thing! Only for about two weeks now. I did a 10 gallon change today vaccuned the top of the sand got rig if most of the algae. My phos was up at 5 but my nitrates were at 40! (Before the change) I am going to test tomorrow again. I was told just to do water changes to help rid the issue. Tank will be 3 months old in October 4.