display tank water level

Hmm, I can tell you my stanpipe was almost submurged. Well the drain protion of it was anyhow. I thought maybe it needed more air so I drilled the hole out a little bigger and it got worse. I pulled the cap off the top and replaced it with a new one with a smaller hole than it had to start and it worked perfect. The plumbing on your OM's valve looks like 1.5 or 2 inch. How big is it and how big are your drain pipes coming out of the tank? Does your closed loop pick up water from your overflow boxes or does it pull directly from the tank?

 

You are trying to force al that water through a wet dry ? all you need to do is divert about 10 %to 15% and 25% max. of the total water volume through the bio chamber I really think this is why or where the nitrate factory stuff started ? The same thing applies to a well designed refugium . Oh and every house in the country with indoor plumbing has a Duso vent on it as did the old water towers for steam locomotives I don't think they called them durso or duso ? what ever name its got now ? Plumber call it a wet vent

 

Kogle, The closed loop is separate from the overflows and pulls water directly out of the tank. The OM is plumbed with 1.5" all round. I have two overflows each is 1.5" they them both go into a 2" pipe to the sump. The return is 2" pipe until it get to the tank where it plits to two 1.5" and then 4 1".
Tangster, The overflows currently empty into a 150 gallon sump through a couple of filter socks, that feeds the reeflo 250 skimmer. I will eventually get my 75G fuge plumbed into the sump and will be only pushing maybe 500G/hour through it.

 

If it's not the amount of air coming into the durso then I'm at a loss. I can only speak from experience and the problems I've had.

Hey just out of curiosity, I saw you're in Georgetown Ky. You don't by chance work at TMMK do you?

 

afraid not. Im a professor at UK. I guess i could always make the whole smalled in the dorso! but like i said previously that is making my margin for error a little smaller.

 

Not an archeologist are you??? ;D We had a professor in one of the caves we found in Kentucky a while back to look at some Indian remains.

Back to the task at hand, if you make the holes smaller I believe it would make the durso want to pull more water through it to the point where it almost wants to syphon. If you totally close the hole it will create a syphon.

Again I'm not totally up to par on the working of these things. I'm only sharing what has worked for me. Good news is if you close the hole off you can always drill it back open...

 

I've put john guess valves on my dursos. This allows me to adjust the air flow. Mind you I've never touched them once I tuned them in

I really like your 4-Way. I just have the regular one.
Have you tried to monitor your water level with the closed loop off? I'm just wondering if when the intake drum is in motion, less water is flowing through the closed loop. this might raise the water level. then as the drum finds am opening the water then rushes through causing the water level to drop?

Just a thought. but I like Tangsters Idea in the wet dry as well

J

 

Jason, i know you have some pretty complex plumbing on your tank. Do you have a remote sump? my sump is located about 50 feet away in my garage. The output into the sump is some 5 vertical feet lower than the water level in the the tank, but it does rise about 2 vertical feet to get into the sump. can you see this being part of the problem?

 

You shouldn't have a rise in your drain pipes. Always fall so gravity does the work.

 

its still a net fall. I am wondering if the overflow grills are too big, ie they let too much water through . what about gluing some plexiglas on the lower portions of the overflow grills?
still got a low water level. no matter where the water level is in the overflows.