DIY LED Options and Help

Hello, recently more than a few 3reefers have steered me towards DIYing a fixture for my 180. This is a 6'X2'X2' tank.

1. Now my questions start with width of the tank vs. penetration of the LEDs. The widest heatsink on rapidLED.com is about 6". Would I need to use a wide angle optics kit in order to remediate this? And would using wider optics compromise penetration?
2. Second set of questions, this time about mounting: How to you fit LEDs into a drilled/tapped heatsink? I would prefer to go this route instead of thermal grease, if I ever need to swap out LEDs this would be easier. Plus I'm handier with a screwdriver than with glue :. On rapidled.com however, they say their kits are for use with thermal adhesive only...so, how would I be able to screw in the LEDs?
3. And finally, probably most important, which kit? Should I do a 5.9"X6" heatsink with dimmable 24 LED kit? And how many? Or 3X 23" heatsinks with 3 36 LED kits? Or anything else?

Just a final note, this will be over a mixed reef with SPS in the top half to third and LPS near the bottom. I do not want to be bleaching SPS at 24".
Tanks in advance guys! I hope Evolved can chime in on this, he was the one to get me on this track!
Pan

 

evolved is my mentor too His build is very inspiring.

You can always get your own size heatsinks from a different source (ie: Heatsinkusa.com). If you wanna go wider, you can order something like this.

Heatsinks dont have to be tapped. The thermal glue they provide is very strong but if you ever need to replace the LED, a nip of flathead screw driver would do the job.

24 LEDs each on a heatsink x3 is more than enough. Some might say its too much. I like more than less. I have a 23"x 4.25" over my 29 gallon with a 24 LED Ultra kit and its 24" off the bottom and 8" off the top surface. I dont run 100%. Recently, I got a 90 gallon. I would like another 23" over it when I can.

Im sure others can help more. Still I hope this helps a bit.

 

For 72" width, you don't need 3 23" heatsink's. Remember, optics are not shooting the light down in a straight line, it will be at an angle..how narrow or wide is up to you. The space needed to supply proper light spread without dark spots is a mounting height factor. If you have room to mount the fixtures higher, the less heatsink space is needed. However, with that comes a possible problem with having to add more LED/inch to accommodate light intensity lost due to height. It will really depend on the livestock you plan on keeping. I would advise against getting as many LEDs as possible and dimming them down. Talk to the retailers (RapidLED, etc.) and get a suggestion from them. These lights are powerful, even when dimmed...especially with focused optics.

 

I do respond to PMs you know...

1. You're going to want 60deg optics for that depth. But first: do you want to hang these fixtures or put them in a canopy? If you're hanging, you can do a narrow heatsink and hang them high; if you're in a canopy you're going to need a wide heatsink and more LEDs. Get your heatsinks from heatsinkusa.com Lot's of choices on width

2. Don't drill/tap. You'll hate yourself. It's a lot of labor. If they're drilled/tapped you need to use thermal grease. If they're not, you need to use thermal paste (glue). The point here is you need "something" to fill the air gap between the diode and the heatsink so you have a good thermal conduction path. Heat is the enemy of the diode. Just use the thermal paste, it's much easier. You can take a screw driver or chisel and pop them off in seconds if you ever need to replace one.

3. What's your tank like? And by that I mean, where, if any, are your center braces? Clear of black? No point in having LEDs over a black brace... I'm thinking you've got 2 black ones at the 1/3rd and 2/3rds mark, so:
I'd do 72 LEDs divided up between three 20" heat sinks, 7-8" wide if you're hanging, 10-12" wide if you're in a canopy. I might only do 18" long on each if they're going to be hung.

 

So if they are not tapped then a I can't run the wiring behind? I would like to hide the wires and put a acrylic guard, to make it look nice. I am not sure about the tank, I want to do acrylic but probably will go with glass. You are right about the braces. I think this tank will need a canopy, since Wrasses will be prominantly featured.
So 3 of these: http://www.rapidled.com/servlet/the-54/24-Ultra-Premium-LED/Detail
And 3 of these: http://www.heatsinkusa.com/products/10.000"-Wide-x-20"-Long-Heatsink.html
Is there anything else I need? I would really like to use sodderless connectors, but apperantly you can't use optics? Can anyone recommend a good sodering gun?
Tanks

 

The only thing drilled/tapped really does for you is allow you to mount the LEDs with screws (with a plastic washer under the head). You'd need extra holes to take the wires to the fin-side of the heat sink. However, I think that's a messy way to go (taking the wires to the fin-side). Sure, you can hide the wires when you're running the length of the heat sink, but there's no good way to cross the width. I'm yet to see a build that looks "clean" trying to do this. I intentionally used a piece of aluminum on the side of my heat sinks to not only hide the wiring (and I used black wires on my black heat sink), but also to hold a piece of acrylic as a splash guard. Go back and take a look at the pictures in my thread to get some ideas.

You don't necessarily need a canopy for wrasses (I won't ever have one), you just need a good tank cover. Even with a canopy, you still need a way to keep things from jumping out the back.

Three of those Rapid kits are fine (or one 48 kit and one 24 kit to save $5), and three of those heat sinks are fine.

Correct, the solderless kits won't work with optics (and are really only a good choice for nano tanks where you don't need optics).

This is my iron of choice: Weller 100/140-Watt Soldering Gun Kit - 8200PKS at The Home Depot
The 140W is hot enough that solder melts very quickly, so you can minimize the contact time with the iron on the diode star. However, it will also quickly cook a diode if you sit on it for a long time. Double-edge sword, and might not be the best choice for a beginner. Honestly, I'd recommend some solder lessons/practice before you jump into this.

You will need some other things, but those can be remedied by a trip to Radio Shack and/or Home Depot. Again, go browse through my thread for ideas; make a list. You will need a fan kit for cooling the heat sinks, as well as a way to hang or mount them. You can get that stuff from Rapid if you'd like. Don't forget you'll need "something" or some way to dim the drivers.

http://www.3reef.com/forums/i-made/diy-dimmable-rapidled-kit-converting-mhs-96138.html

 

Thanks evolved, this really is a great help!