DIY Project (Bulkheads, Sump, Internal Overlow) NEED ADVICE

Discussion in 'I made this!' started by MisterZJ, Aug 13, 2008.

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  1. reef_guru

    reef_guru Humpback Whale

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    i would have a refugium tank and a sump tank, meaning two smaller tanks instead of one big one, its easily plumbed. all with external pumps.
     
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  3. MisterZJ

    MisterZJ Plankton

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    No idea on tank name/manufacturer. It does not have any markings to suggest a manufacturer.
     
  4. MTips18

    MTips18 Purple Spiny Lobster

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    if you need a good glass hole saw go here Glass-Holes.com i got a couple from there and they work flawlessly
     
  5. MisterZJ

    MisterZJ Plankton

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    Thank you very much for the site, but I already have 4 bits coming, one for each hole to be sure they don't wear down.
     
  6. KOgle

    KOgle Zoanthid

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    If you can return 3 of the bits I wuold and spend that money on something else. Those bits aren't cheap and one drilled 10 holes in my tank fine. It was also used when I borrowed it.

    When are you planning on drilling? Oh, make sure you use a variable speed drill. Low speeds are better than high speeds. With glass you are more sanding the material off than cutting it.
     
  7. TankBoyME

    TankBoyME Astrea Snail

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    [​IMG]
    Ok...

    You don't need baffle 4 in this design. Bubbles will rise between baffles #2 & #3; by forcing water under #3, you create your "bubble trap." Baffle #2 would usually dictate the height of your sump/fuge water level, but since you have the pump putting water into your refugium, baffle #5 will now dictate the water level (your micron sock will be submerged).
    My advice here is to ditch baffle 5, and put #4 (shorter than #2) in its place. Then have your ball valve pipe return water to the micron sock, or keep it if you want more flow in your refugium.
    Personally, my designs have always been similar to this, except the refugium and return pump chambers are switched. The natural flow usually gives me a nice current through my fuge, and by the time water reaches the pump, it's air free. Plus I use less baffles (less work).

    For your "Y" split at the returns (#6)... I'd recommend putting in a SCWD to give the display tank a more natural, wave-like vibe. I also use Loc-Line, and the adjustable arms allow you to really dial in the wave feature, and you can always move them if you change your rock design or something.

    For all piping... definately use two 45 degree turns opposed to a 90 degree. As a Mechanical Engineer, I TOO AM EXTREMELY ANAL, and after learning from fluid mechanics classes, nothing pisses me off more than 90 degree angles... I NEVER use 90 deg... and I never have flow issues.

    Remember to measure the volume above the bulk heads, or in your case, above the straining teeth (L X W X Height from top of tank to bottom of teeth radius). Convert to gallons, neglect volume in pipes for safety factor, and your refugium should hold that. I always put bulk heads a little above what I calculated just to be safe.

    I too hate HOB crap, and as a side job, I now build about one tank a month (from 5 gallon nano to 280 gallon so far). Everyone has their own "taste" but since you seem to have OCD/perfectionist syndrome like myself ;D, I might be able to give you some ideas and pics. Otherwise, listen to the gurus on 3reef, cause some of my best ideas simply came from them (especially Otty). Otty, if I'm ever in your hood, you GOTTA let me see that beast of a tank!!!
     
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  9. KOgle

    KOgle Zoanthid

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    Hey I know where Otty lives. $20 and I'll show you everything. ;D
     
  10. MisterZJ

    MisterZJ Plankton

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    Thanks so much for the reply Tankboy! I see what you are saying, and like you said, there are a billion different methods of creating sumps, even on this forum! I want the simplest, but most efficient, sump method possible, while incorporating a fuge. I have seen the design you are referring to where the fuge and return are switched. I guess either way would work, but i thought this way I could have a "bigger" fuge, more gallons to put a deep sand bed, LR, etc.. I do not like work though, so it might change lol. I appreciate any and all advice given as I am a "semi-newb." I know a lot, but not everything lol. Especially when it comes to sumps/plumbing. I usually have enough live rock in my display to compensate for mechanical filtration, and have had HOB stuff until now! I'm ready for the "big time" haha lol.

    Thanks,

    Matt
     
  11. Jakerupe

    Jakerupe Skunk Shrimp

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    Welcome sounds like everyone is giving you pretty good advice. As far as drilling the tank I've done a few and actually what I found out the last time saved me a lot of time and money.

    Anyway before you open the drill bits talk to one of your local pet shops or even glass cutters about using a portable drill press that uses diamond dust... slow but it works like a charm and your guranteed a square cut which is easier to seal. I have a local pet shop that lets me use theirs when I need one.
     
  12. phorn

    phorn Bristle Worm

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    Shhhhhh, Tangster might hear!!! :-X

    Seriously, though all you need is a 'fuge thats about 10% the volume of your display tank...any larger than that and you will starve whatever you put in it, because there won't be enough waste from the display. To use Tangster's analogy, its like having a farm and some cows. The cows provide the fertilizer for the farm. If you increase the amount of land, but don't increase the amount of cows (i.e. fertilizer) the larger farm won't do too good.

    (Tangster if your reading this, I hope I didn't butcher that too bad!):hammer: