Drain Diameter Question?

Yes, the valve is restricting.

To put it into perspective, a 1" bulkhead is rated at 600 gph. That is what I have on my 90g. 2x1" on your 150g would be 1200 gph. A 1.5" can flow almost twice a 1".

So.... a 1.5" main drain, and a 1.5" emergency drain would be plenty. If you want to do duals on each corner, then 2x1" would still be good. 2x 1 1/4" would be even better.

You are getting your stuff together. Figuring out your layout.... you really should take some time and figure out what you want. You can have a really nice setup that would last a long time.... or you could just knock something out and deal with it forever.

The principles of the Herbie and Bean Animal are the same. The Bean uses a coast to coast Calfo overflow and three pipes. Honestly, I think the 3rd is overkill, but it is without a doubt the most fail safe overflow in existence. Google BeanAnimal overflow... he has his own site with a very good explaination of overflows and how to do his.

 

I highly recommend a bean animal coupled design with a coast to coast overflow. I have looked into TONS of conventional overflow setups and this is what I will be using on my 180.

~Will.

 

Same on my future 180g.

 

FWIW, one 1" bulkhead with a schedule 40 pvc pipe will flow just under 1000gph (960 or 980 I forget). A 1.5" bulkhead with sch 40 pipe will flow right around 2000gph. Add sch 80 piping and the flow rates do go down a little. AGA rates their 1" at 600gph. I don't exactly know why, probably a legal buffer, or their standpipe is restrictive.
These flow rates are from flow ratings from the plumbing industry. Yes, bends and valves will reduce flow, but unless you have crazy bends in your drain (obviously you don't want that) it won't be reduced by a ton.

I see no reason on any tank that will fit in a normal home that would need any more than two 1.5" bulkheads to handle the drain of a reef tank. I am talking a huge tank BTW. Most even 400-500g tanks could easily only need two 1" bulkheads, but a tank that big you might want schedule 80 piping to give it rigidity.

The flow from the DT to the sump is only for water turnover from one area of the system to another (sump to DT). The rest of the circulation should be hadled in tank by powerheads of any sort, or closed loops.

You don't want or need a ton of flow into and out of the sump.

 

Bean's overflow is IMHO overly complicated and uses too many expensive parts. To that end, it does not work any better than other much less expensive and far less complicated options.


To me it is like the Delorean of cars.

I do like the coast to coast calfo overflow though. I went with a not quite coast to coast version on my plywood reef tank.

 

I think AGA 600 gph flow rate on a 1" comes from the overflow grate and not the actual bulkhead fitting.

 

Yeah, That was the other thing I have thought of in the past, but I did not remember that.

I know of a few guys that dremeled out their megaflows, and put in gutter guard. That apparently did allow more flow.

The AGA "durso" does not seem much different than a regular durso standpipe, so the grate must be the limiter.

 

Alright thanks for the input. I have not drilled or started the build project yet, so i will re think my set-up once again. I guess I was hoping to solve water return from sump and flow in the DT with the same pump. I guess I will consider a closed loop pump and a sump return pump...

 

I would ditch the CL idea and go with vortech's, Korallias, or tunzes personally.

 

Thanks horkn, I'll look into. Any chance these compatible with the red sea wavemaker? I read somewhere Korallias are not good choice with wavemakers.. I ended up with one of those wavemaker units when i bought my tank. Originally didn't plan to use it though because of the earlier idea of not putting internal pumps in the tank. If i do put pumps in the tank, i will probably use it.