Dying corals

Like I said, dosing is unnecessary right now. Nothing is growing as per you. Until your corals begin growing again (and even then, it may not be necessary), there is no need to dose. You'll just cause your numbers to move around even more. IME, unless your system has clams or a lot of SPS, you will likely never need to dose if you're keeping up with water changes.

Stability is key here. When you start seeing growing, take a measurement of alk. and calc. Do so again a week later and then figure out how much of each your tank is consuming daily. From there, you can figure out your dosing requirements.

At this point, your just wasting money dosing a system that doesn't need it and on top of that, causing changes in chemistry, setting growth back further.

 

Understood. What CAN I do to make everything fine? Should I do smaller, more frequent water changes? I did a 30G~ one just now.

I noticed my danae and GSP are hard. The Danae is like a rock, and for the GSP, some parts of it that protrude are hard. (it grows in an abnormal shape)

 

I think there's still something we're missing in terms of the water chemistry. Your corals are not only not growing but dying so something is wrong. Could it be the phosphates?

Bump for help!

 

Not to put anyone's product choices down, but API tests are almost completely worthless in general, but when trying to grow SPS they are just not good enough. Especially for someone recently introducing "tougher" corals.

Now, don't get me wrong people use API and have positive results, but largely this is not the case. They are just a "close enough window" of data. I would consider anything tested using those kits inaccurate, irregardless of date of expiration. If you have already replaced them good on you, that was most certainly the right choice. Also, check your LFS choice of kit when testing your water, they may use API also, because it is cheap and they are being asked to test all the time for customers. Again, if that is the case I would consider those results invalid.

As far as your water params are concerned, I didn't see a PO4 test result posted up, but that could be a consideration for bleaching. Also, the NH3 result is a concern even from an API, but it could simply be a misread.

You mentioned concerns of a goby dying and causing an ammonia spike, but unless it was ~24 hours ago, a properly cycled tank should have pushed it beyond the ammonia stage by now.

How long do your soft corals stay closed ("hard") after the water change? Indefinitely? or just temporarily?

Further, if you are experiencing NH3 in any case, it is guaranteed that Nitrite and ulimately Nitrate/PO4 are on the rise. What are your current means for exporting these waste nutrients? (Pardon me not being familiar with your set up) Skimmer, or just water changes? Reactors? Etc.

 

Stabilize everything, IMO. Get your chemistry where you want it and then leave it be. Carry out your 10% weekly water changes and you should find success.

In this case, doing little, should do a lot

 

Thanks for the concern!

I'm going to make a trip into town and get new test kits for NH3/PH/NO2/ NO3. I'll also get a PO4 test kit.

I've got a Reef Octopus NWB-150 Pinwheel as a skimmer, big ball o' chaeto in the sump, and water changes. No reactors. Are there any that would be particularly useful for my situation?

Will do.

 

Well, it seems you have the right equipment, it would just be a matter of test results. If you have excess phosphate it will need to removed via reactor IMO. Nitrate issue? This can also be controlled via reactor.

I like your plan to get the appropriate tests and check params then develop a course of action from that data.

Also if you want to save some cash you can skip a test for nitrite, since it is really not something tested much after the initial cycle IME.

 

Forgot my LFS is closed today (of course). I'll order from reef supplies. Their shipping is fast, and it'll be cheaper. I can see about getting a reactor, but in the meantime, would water changes do the trick? Should I do more/bigger water changes for now ?

Thanks for the replies, everyone. My corals and I thank you!

 

I'm thinking since you have visible algae, you can assume that your phosphate is higher than even a test may show. I would suggest you look at running some GFO or phosguard. You can run the phosguard in a high flow area in a media bag in your sump or in a hang on the back. I believe GFO needs to tumble (I've not used it) so a reactor would be needed.

I think Kevin had a good point, to not do too much. Since you just did a large water change, I'd hold off for a week....get your test kits and then post those for some assistance.

 

Agreed with oldfishkeeper. However, one thing that always helped me when PO4 was high was stirring the sand bed very slowly over the course of many weeks to release any stored PO4 right before a small (several gallons on a 75g DT) water change. And when I say slow, I mean really slow... like maybe a 2 inch circle of sand and that is it for at least 24 hours.

The main goal here is to let tiny bits of stored PO4 release into the water column, remove some of them via physical removal (water change) and allow the others to be processed naturally in the water column.

Doing many very small water changes also will benefit your nitrate removal. Keep in mind, this is really a temporary fix though to a larger nutrient problem and will only get you back on track, not give you true stability.

Also, you will need to adjust your water change amounts for your specific tank size, but IMO slower is better on all things.. stir less sand, change less water, etc.

Further, I wouldn't worry too much about buying a reactor or anything of that nature until you see what is really going on chemically in the tank. You may very well not need one at all. It was merely something to think about for the future. I personally ran a NextReef MR1 Phosphate reactor with with BRS Ferric Oxide HC on my full sps tank just to help keep the PO4 levels none existant.