Feed my red scooter blenny!

Okay, thanks .

 

If you have Chaeto in the sump you can transfer a ball of Chaeto to the display. Pods tend to collect in Chaeto, you can just switch one clump out for another in a rotating system.

Not everyone wants Chaeto in the display but some times you can find a discreet spot to stick it in.

 

That's a good idea! Thanks!

 

no, I actually had a chance to talk to Randy Reed (reef nutrition) on day, and this is how he recommended to do it.

With a 110g I dont forsee you really needing to do this unless you have a lot of pod eating fish. Every once in a while, add a bottle into your sump and you should be fine!

 

how is it coming so far? did you return him or end up keeping him?

 

I wanna know too

 

Yes, thanks for your interest guys. We talked to the fish store and for some reason they are podless. So instead of returning him, I have a shipment of pods on their way (bought on-line). We also bought the little guy some Nutramar Ova and have been using a baster to apply it to the sand bed next to him. He is VERY small, only about an inch long, and it is hard for me to know for sure whether he is eating. He is definitely active with pecking and puffing which I have read is a good sign. *crosses fingers* We also feed our tank fusion, which has some stuff in it for him.

 

Fusion, as in Seachem Fusion? If so, that's a 2 part, not a feed. It will help keep your CA/ALK/MG in check though

 

Once again I have to clean-up after Randy. Dark colors are better, white stresses them as they are sensitive to shadows.... its the one defense mechanism they actually have (shadows trigger them to hunker down as it could be wave about to hit their pool). Clear is also a bad idea for the same reason.

Best thing is to use a kitty little pan or the likes.. greater water volume and surface area.

You'll want to feed way more then a drop or two a week. I suggest keeping the water tinted dark green as much as possible. They eat a lot, and need a lot if you want a viable long lasting culture. In our production tanks at Reef Nutrition, you cannot see your hand a few inches into the water.

They are not sensitive to salinity, or water quality for that matter, but are sensitive to DO (disolved oxygen). This is why greater surface area is preferred. In their natural environment - upper splash pools - their water quality is typically insanely poor... triple salinity, ammonia off the charts, etc. Reason being, the upper splash pools are the last zone in tidepool regions. They get hit with waves every once in a while, sometimes weeks can go by with out any hitting them. They can hit in the upper 90's for the summer, then get hit with a 50 degree wave. Heck, I had some get frozen on accident and had 80% survival

Higher salinity tends to kick them into higher breeding production, most likely as a last ditch effort to grow the population prior to the tidepool drying up.

They also eat their own molts so removing them is removing a viable feed source.

Zero water changes are performed on the Reef Nutrition Tigger-Pod production tanks.

Feel free to email our technical support team if you'd like more advice in culturing Tigger-Pods... techsupportATreedmaricultureDOTcom

 

sweet happy to hear that. u could post a pic of him lol.