Filter in Reef Tank

Okay, I've been reading that a filter isnt "required" if you have enough LR (I plan on using 60-80# in a 55g). However this is my girlfriends future tank and I dont want her to have any problems/losses if she neglects a water change for a week She has been much better about it lately, but I would like some insurance (as im splitting the $ with her).

I was looking at the Fluval 05s, but somebody said stay away from canisters and recommended some E brand i cant remember.

Also, I've read good things on the Coralife Super Skimer. At $90 its a LOT cheaper than the AquaC at $300+. I plan on using a sump so it seems like a good choice?

Thanks

 

Hi MDeth,

I understand your concern. I setup a tank for my father once he was hooked on my tank. A simple answer is if you have enough live rock then you do not need any additional filtration. However, you do NEED a protein skimmer. This is far more valuable than any canister filter. In fact most people who run a canister filter on a saltwater/reef tank remove moxt of the media and replace it with live rock. Then, they'll add their phos or nitrate remover in there as well. What you should be concerned with is surface agitation and skimming.
The way to minimize the water changes is to have a refugium. They help remove nitrates from the water. Now, if you don't want to do a sump/fuge then you could grow good color macro algae in the tank. You can get some real pretty red algae to compliment the calpura and cheato that you should have. This is what I did in my father's tank. Also, you should have a top-off system to keep the salinity in check. You can get a cheap one at Aquahub Homepage. As long as you don't overload the tank, you should be able to create a tank that only needs water changes ever 2-3 or more weeks.

 

Hehe

She can do water changes weekly (I told her she better do biweekly 5/6g changes) and usually does a gallon or so every 8-9 days in her 12g. But the 2-3 weeks sounds like a good fallback incase she gets busy occasionally. I am aware of the fact I should use a sump but unaware of the exact hardware specifics at the moment (Ill be investigating further at my LFS). You're saying I should save the money and hookup the 'fuge at the same time as the sump (and rest of the tank).

Also about pumps...since theres no filtration flow ... what should I use for Sump pumps & what return powerheads? A LFS - well not really local - recommends the Rio because although problematic they have a nice blocked section where fish are much harder to be harmed.

^also i edited my post earlier, how about that skimmer?

So...I have the tank - partway there (now the rest of the big $)
1. I should get the sump+fuge+skimmer+pumps - then setup the tank
2. Then obtain my LR after filtration is 'done'
3. Wait to cure...then start stocking

did i miss any important

 

Hi Again,

A simple sump/fuge is EASY to setup. What you need is 6 things:
1. An overflow for the tank. This should sun around $80 for a good CPR continuous overlfow
2. A small 10G or better yet a 20G long tank. The bigger the better. Whatever will fit in your stand is what you should use. Divide this so at least 5G is dedicated to your fuge. Again bigger is better.
3. an in-sump skimmer. These are easier to care for than a HOB skimmer. less chance of salt creep and water drips when you change the collection cup.
4. A return pump from the sump to the tank. I personally like magdrive pumps, but a good RIO 2100 should be good for your 55G tank
5. A light for the fuge. You can get a cheap 18W coralife light for ~$30.
6. Macro Algae for the sump. You can get Cheato and Calpura anywhere at anytime.
Now, you have two options on how to plumb it. If you look at my post on my new sump/fuge you will see I used pvc, but flexible tubing also will do the trck. you need to either split the line from the overflow or the return line from the return pump. I've heard that the water after the skimmer is better for a fuge, but I have yet to see a difference. Either way you want a small amount of water to flow into the fuge, probably ~2x the volume per hour. When you first start it you want much more to inhibit the growth of cyano bacteria, so more like 5-10x the amount until the algae really starts growing. This should take a week or so. Once this is setup, get a floatswicth from aquahub.com and setup a top-off system. With this in place a water change every two weeks should be "optional". You will need to replace minerals if you are running coral, but for fish it should be fine. I've heard of people who wait up to a month to do their changes. Even with this, and my full setup, I like to do small changes every week. I believe small changes each week is better than big changes every 2-4 weeks. Plus, I have my system setup to make my changes VERY simple. Anyway, I'm a big proponent of sump/fuges. Not only are they easy to take care of and produce wonderful results, but they give you space to put your heater and add your water minerals. Finally, if you get a big enough return pump (make sure it doesn't overload your overflow) you can split your return line, add a SCWD and some locline and do away with in-tank circulation pumps. This is also mainly an astetic choice, but less pumps produce less heat. Oh, speaking of heat, you can also add a small fan to your sump to regulate the water temp. this adds to evaporation, but a top-off system will balance this.
I hope this rambling helps. feel free to sak any questions. I feel after 5 years that I have a pretty good handle on the whole fuge/sump thing.
<EDIT> I didn't answer your questions:
1. I should get the sump+fuge+skimmer+pumps - then setup the tank
YES - It is better to get the parts befor you start.
2. Then obtain my LR after filtration is 'done'
YES - If by "after" you mean sfter the plumbing is done. It is much easier to plumb when the tank is dry.
3. Wait to cure...then start stocking
YES - If the live rock is "uncured" then you do need to go through the nitrogen cycle before you add any fish. Do get some live rock and live sand to kick-start this process. Also, add a phosphate remover early on to keep this in check. This will help minimize the potential for a breakout of cyano bacteria.

 

I would go with maxi-jet powerheads over Rios. Rios are loud to say the least.

I agree with Dyngoe on the skimmer and auto-top off.

Any thoughts to a sump?

What size tank are we talking about here?

 

55g - Can a glass tank be drilled so I dont need an overflow box? I've heard they lead to problems and "incorrect" water flow/bad filtration.

I have seen recommendations for 20-30g sump. Im lazy and dont have the time to DIY so I will probably buy one of the premade sumps with the area for a skimmer.

I was thinking of using a hangon 'fuge...it seems like you guys dont advocate that much. So assuming a fuge in the sump is ideal (and i do have an extra tank )

So if somebody could walk me through (im slow eh?) how many pumps will this total?

And if somebody could list total parts then that would be excellent! or a specific link

 

Hi,

Let me answer a few of your comments/questions.
First, drilling a tank is a risk. You can easily crack the tank and then you are out the price of a drill and the tank. Besides, I thought you didn't want a DIY project.
Second, as long as your return pump does not exceed your overflow volume, then a hang on overflow will work great. Many people, including myslelf, use them with no ill effects.
Third, don't do a hang on fuge. Fuges are best under the tank where you can maintain them. a HOB fuge would be my last reort. before that I'd actually plant algae in the tank.
Finally, a DIY sump fuge is EASY. All you need is a tank, class or plastic. Then you go to TAP plastics and get a piece of 1/4" plastic cut to make a divider. It should be just a little shorter than the height of the tank. Add two extra small ~2" strips for extra side bracing and seal it all with aquarium silicone. Sure, you could get complicated with bubble traps and multiple sections, but you only need two. Will take less than 3 hours to make.
As for a list of all the prices, that's up in the air. Look at what I listed before and price it out where you want to buy it. You will have to add in tubing and at least one ball valve as well as a y splitter. Shouldn't cost too much. Definitely not much more than a 405 canister filter. OK, maybe ~$100 more.

 

The Aqua C you want is the Remora...it is cheaper than $300.00! That is what I paid for my AquaC ev180!
You don't need one that big!!

 

One thing you should never skimp on is a protein skimmer. You will be better in the long run if you just bite the bullet and buy a nice one.

 

So whats nice? The Coralifes are bad i assume, so the Remora is the key!

Also whats the separator for in the tank/fuge? Can you link me to a specific DIY article?

Finally, has anybody ever head good/bad about the Nova brand T-5 lights? They have the moonlight integrated into it so thats a cool feature.