First LPS - Green Torch not opening

I purchased my first LPS frag, which is a green torch coral about an inch in diameter (the foot of the coral). I have it placed about half way down the water column in my 72 bow front, so probably 16" down from my T5 lights (4 48" T5's which are about 6 months old)

Basic water parameters seem fine, though my PH fluxuates a bit. Right now it is at 8.02 and it was 8.2 yesterday evening. I did add some marine buffer last night trying to get it up to 8.2 last night.

My flow is fairly low right now as I have only main pump circularion - my powerhead broke and I have two new koralia evolutions on order.

The coral was looking great yesterday during the day 1 day after being added (added on Friday). But he closed up last night and is still closed this morning 30 minutes after turning on the lights.

I did notice an emerald crab haning on the foot this morning...

Thoughts? I'm thinking the PH fluxuation is the issue.

 

From personal experience I suggest....leave your PH alone. Your readings are fine as is. The Ph will swing throughout the day, this is normal. Stop the buffer!
What are your calcium, alkalinity and magnesium levels? Temp? Nitrate, nitrite and ammonia levels? Specific gravity and salinity levels?

 

Salinity 1.21
Ph 8.06.
KH 214
Temp 78.9
Amonia 0
Nitrites 0
Nitrates - very close to zero, but don't have a digital meter

I won't be able to measure CA or Magnesium until Wednesday as I don't have a test kit.

 

It's acting dead - tenticles just hanging over the side. I directed some flow over it which blew the tenticles out of the foot - but when the flow was removed the tenticles are just hanging limply over the side.

Wish i knew more about these - not sure what is normal behavior, but it's not looking good.

 

Your SG is too low.

To raise you have to do so slowly with completely mixed addition of SW and no FW top offs for a few days. Make sure you're getting a correct value, by using the hydrometer correctly or better yet a refractometer.

Please post an image.

 

Reef Aquarium Water Parameters by Randy Holmes-Farley - Reefkeeping.com

Also as mentioned by Nanareefer do not chase your pH values by adding buffer.

 

I'll post an image from my iphone asap. Regarding slowly adding SW - I have an ATO system drawing from an RO/DI vat downstairs which is controlled by a reefkeeper and float valve in my sump. I could easily move the tube to a pre-mixed vat of SW and it would slowly add SW instead of the FW. But would that be too slow? Using a Bulk Reef Supply dosing pump -50 ml/minute. But I can't say for sure how much water is evaporating in my tank per hour. I would guess a gallon a day?

 

Sounds like a plan, just monitor it through out the next day or two.

Going down in SG is easier on corals and fish, going up causes more stress.

When you get to 1.023 I would just let the rest happen by evaporation.

 

Picture of torch coral.

 

Well it is beyond a doubt dead now. Crabs eating it. So I just want to know - can salinity have that huge of an effect on a coral? It died within 48 hours. Had no idea that salinity played such a huge role and was much more concerned about PH and the other basic parameters.

If salinity is so crucial I will be purchasing a refractometer to ensure it's always as 1.026 or so.