First tank isn't going so well with set up

Shouldnt use anything over mag5 pump on 55g tank.

 

I agree with putting a tee on the return line redirecting some of the water back to the sump. I also have read that you can put a ball valve on the output side of the pump (not the input side) and cut back on the flow but what coralreefer said makes sense and id imagine your going to shorten the life of the pump a bit.

 

Thank you all for the input. I went to lowe's today and decided to get a ball valve for the return line. Unfortunately I didn't check this thread until after I had gotten home but I think I will make another trip for a T-Valve. My question is do I assemble in this order: tubing > T with barb's on inlet and 90 degree end with tubing directed to sump > connector on outlet of T to inlet of valve > valve with barb on outlet > tubing > water nozzle. Thanks again folks!

 

The valve with a tee should go on the output side of the pump (between pump and tank) Then route back to the line.

On mine, I ran up from the pump, put in a tee. On the right side of the tee, the line feeds to the tank. ON the left side of the tee, I put the valve and then a 90 back into the sump.

Basically, the pipe goes from the pump to the tank with a branch coming out of it to the valve and then return

Hopefully the semi-sketch below will help illustrate what I'm so incompetent at verbally communicating.


pump
|
|
tee_______________tank
|
|
valve
|
sump


Finally, 3 edits and it looks like what I meant to say

 

oh... and I have a ball valve in the return line also just to control how fast it drains. Also helps with noise.


(just my experience, maybe I'm wrong) what do the others think?

 

Right on. Thanks for the sketch man. I really appreciate it alot

 

out of curiosity would it be an idea to move more water with another overflow box and try and compensate for the water being pumped back into the tank

i mean if u setup another overflow box u could move twice the water to the sump would have no restrictions on the pump and have cleaner water all round and better water flow?

 

Target, that's an idea too.... I have a pre-drilled tank, so I did mine this way because I was limited on my drain line.

Of course, another overflow costs atleast $70 where as the valves and fittings cost about $15.

 

Alright I took the advice and fitted a tee along with relocation of the valve to the sump. Now I am having trouble fine tuning the tank. How should I go about this?

 

That's the part that I don't know how to do...... adjust the valve a little, watch it for a while and see how that goes..... if it overflows, turn the valve again..... I just kept messing with it until I got it where I wanted it. It took me about 2 days to get it tuned in perfect.