GFCI Problems

Just upgraded to 120gallon AGA. I am having a problem. I have GFCI on a dedicated line just for the tank and it sporatically trips the GFCI. I had a 15amp breaker and 15amp GFCI outlet. I tried replacing the breaker from a 15amp to GFCI 15 amp breaker and putting regular receptical back for possible sensitivity of the GFCI receptical. I have read about this being problems for other users. The weird thing is I can turn on every powered device on the tank and it doesn't trip the GFCI. But occasionally once a day. I come home to find no power to the tank. I did run the return pump and two powerheads off another outlet on seperate circuit. Even with these being on seperate circuit I still get the occasional trip. Is it possible that the ground wire on my retro T5's are causing the probelms?? My question to that is every other powered device i have is from the factory. I figured out the amp draw for the equipment I am using and it doesn't come close to over amping the breaker. This is what I figured.

T5 4 x 54watts = 1.8 amps Two separate workhorse ballasts
T5 4 x 54watts = 1.8 amps Two separate workhorse ballasts
Ehiem 80watts = .6 amps
Maxi 1200 20 watts = .16 amps GFO/carbon
finnex 300watt = 2.5 amps Heater
powerhead 1050 5watts = .04 amps
powerhead 1050 5 watts = .04 amps
rio 600 10watts = .08 amps Ato on float switch

Total = 7.02

Again the return and two powerheads are on seperate line. Any suggestions?? I was thinking of upgrading the line to 12/2 20amp again seperate dedicated circuit but I don't think I'm maxing out the amperage. Even with start up spike I can't see it going over.

 

What class is your receptical? I believe class A has a 5 miliamp sensitivity.

Did you say it was tripping the breaker too when you went back to the regular outlet?

Have you replaced any bulbs recently? Have you checked for condensation or salt creep on and inside your light fixture?

I'd try to slowly eliminate the culprit by taking a piece of equipment off, one at a time, to run on the other circuit till you find what it is. That would be assuming it's an issue with a single thing and not a result pieces of equipment.

 

Not sure of the class. I used a levitron receptical. The GFCI breaker is a Square D. It did not trip the breaker until I put the GFCI Breaker in, but I think when the GFCI trips it trips the breaker also. The old setup I had with GFCI receptical only tripped the receptical. I have replaced all my bulbs for the new upgrade (ATI bulbs). I have 8 x t5 with four workhorse ballast. No condensation or salt creep. Tank has been up for 5 days. Only thing I can think of is my ground wire. I tied all four grounds together from all four power cords. All reflectors are grounded. Stumped don't want to keep replacing breakers, recepticals etc. its getting expensive. It seems to only do it when the lights are on. It has only tripped during the day when the lights are on. It has run every night and has not had the probelm. Kinda why I think it maybe the lights.

 

I Suggest you go to a 20 amp breaker (Standard Breaker) with a 20 amp gfci thats what mine is running with chiller halides ect. works fine.

dont think id ever put a 15 amp in anything imo they will just trip you could not even run a cofee pot and a microwave on that!

levitron good brand use these all day long great product.

 

The wire is 14gauge. I did this when I had a 55 gallon. I just upgraded the tank. All the equipment is new with exception to 2 of the 4 new ballast. I did notice the ballast themselves do seem to be hot to touch. I haven't felt them before so I don't know if this is normal?? I originally thought of ugrading to 12gauge 20 amp breaker. The only thing is as I research GFCI's I have read that it may trip the 20 amp to if it is not the amperage that's causing the problem which in my case I don't think it is. I think it is the lights because like I stated earlier that is the only thing I can really narrow it down to. When lights are off everything else is still running. Night led's, Ato, heater, etc. Just frustrating coming home to tank with no power.

 

Right now you have 5.592 amps of draw not 7 just looked it up if your wattage is right. Ok so thats good but when your ballests start up at the same time they go from 6-7 amps of draw down to the normal 2-3 it works that way with any electrical it always draws more amprage when it starts then tapers off. Is there something starting at the same time during the day? Another thing is maybe your having a ground issue have you looked at your ground comming out of the Breaker Panel >? Is it an old house or new?

The one thing that I dont like is the fact that you said the wire was hot. That shows that you are drawing more than 5.5 amps right there. A normal 14g wire is good up to 1400 watts. you have 852.08 somethings going on there. Think you have more draw than ou know as of right now. But wire hot = BAD

Right now my hundred gallon with halides on it runs at 14.654 amps

 

Total amp load isn't the only thing that can trip a GFCI. It can also be tripped by energy leaking out somewhere. Check out this: Answers.com - Why is a GFCI receptacle set for 5 milli-Ampere

I recenlty had issues with my GFCI receptical when I replaced my lamps to ATI's. The problem has since gone away on its own, but none-the-less it was there.

 

You can go to the GFCI manufacturers website and lookup the time/current curve. The hot wire could be due to a loose connection. Im sure you are not maxing out your GFCI with just your tank equipment.

 

Thats not what concerns me the hot wire is what concerns me. Thats not good you dont want a hot wire running through your wall or along your floor what happens is the plastic starts to slowly melt your copper wire will start to burn and turn black. Im pretty sure you know the next step from there.

Amprage is the speed that electric flows from point A to Point B the higher the speed the more heat that is produced. Right now its kinda like driving 85 miles an hour down a gravel road it works but you never know when your gonna spin out. So the solution would be to pave the road.

Hate to say it but its pretty simple wire is hot they dont get hot under a normal load. If this was me Id be adding another outlet with its own dedicated line or upgrading to 12g with a 20 amp circuit.

This is just my opinion but I do this work every day so.

Also if you think its a TCC issue here read this http://http://www.brainfiller.com/articles/TimeCurrentCurves.php

 

Ok, I must of confused you guys. I meant to say the ballast itself is getting pretty hot. Now two are from my 55gallon and they worked fine on that tank with ati bulbs. I bought two new ballast and they seem to be the same temp. So i think that is normal. Absolutely no wires are getting hot. Today I went above and beyond and ran a new 12/2 from my panel with a 20amp breaker. I also put in a 20amp GFCI outlet with normal 20amp outlet attached to that. I tested the GFCI and it worked. I hook my lights to them and once again it blows the GFCI. I just don't understand?? Checked the wiring to the ballast and everything is correct. I have seperate power wire to each ballast and each one is grounded to the specific ballast that it is wired to. Could it be the ATI bulbs. I bought 8 new ones for this setup. My next step maybe to just put back in a plain 20amp plug swap out for the GCFI and run the lights off that dedicated line. I would like to run the GFCI but I am frustrated with the dam thing. The house way built in 2000. All the wiring is up to code. I was thinking a ground problem but checked them all and seem to be good. Any other ideas. These are workhorse ballast anyone hear probelms like this with those type?? Confused!!!!