GHA and new Odyssea MH pendent

I'm still battling GHA and red algae since checking with your guys 3 or 4 weeks ago. It's not a loosing battle but I just can't rid them for good. Any advice is greatly appreciated.

To think of the origin of problem, I installed an 18" Odyssea MH pendent (1x150w-15000k + 2x14w actinic; Odyssea Metal Halide Pendant) to hope have a better lighting than stock JBJ PC (I know, I know....for those who are going to give me crap about buying Odyssea: it's the most I could afford for now while staying in this brutal habit).

The built quality is really not that bad for $99 shipped. But once again, I know nothing about MH. The new electronic ballast only hisses a little when starting up, then it's super quite. Now the problem is the bulbs. $99 includes bulbs: HQI and actinic blue. I was hoping to use the bulbs for a while then switch them out with better quality ones. Do you guys think I need to do this ASAP? If so, what would you recommend? Do I need to swap out both HQI and T5?

Thanks a bunch.

 

How long has the tank been set up and running?

You may or may not have checked the below items to rule out cause but here it is.

1. R/O DI water only.
2. Check source water for phosphates and nitrates if you do not mix your own.
3. Check the water in your display for phosphates (should be 0.05 ppm and under) and nitrates.
4. Rinse all frozen food and reduce feedings as appropriate.
5. Export nutrients with use of chaeto, mangroves, skimmer, GFO, phosban.....
6. Purchase member of a CUC that actually eat GHA, like chitons, certain hermits....
7. Reduce photo period.

The list may all be a mote point if this is newly set up system, under 4 months.

For quality replacement bulbs for the MH looks at Phoenix and Radium (just the ones I like). I do not think the lighting is the significant factor with regard to the GHA unless the bulbs are really old. It needs nutrients first and foremost to grow.

Good luck.

 

I thought you're other thread was about Cyano Bacteria - it sounded like you were doing all the right things and needed some more flow. +1 to Corailline's post but additionally tell us how the cyano bacteria did and if anthing else has since changed. How is the refugium growing?

 

Thanks for your reply. I just realized I didn't make clear that it's regarding to my 24g JBJ Nano in my office. Please see my response below in blue. I greatly appreciate any input.

Many thanks!!!

 

Sorry for the confusion. You were completely right that I was battling Cyano before. I have two tanks: one 24 g JBJ Nano reef tank in my office and one 55 g FOWLR at my home. Both tanks got Cyano. I took your guys' advice on the 24 g by removing Cyano manually and add a Koralia nano and it worked. Now to think of it, I saw little GHA when battling Cyano. Once Cyano was gone, I would think naturally GHA and red, brown algae took over. Which means I still have not got a handle of nutrient problem. Could it be the RO water without DI I have been using for topping off? Could it be the LR and LS I got from the craig's list?

As for the 55 g FOWLR, I cheated with Chemiclean red slim remover and it worked well. I've not seen cyano coming back, nor algae. But the tank is much better equipped with only one clown and one long-nose hawk and tons of LR. It has 10 g refugium and CPR cyclone wet/dry filter plus skimmer. I also have 20 mangrove and chaeto in the fugi.

Can you please check my reply above about the distance of light and water surface and provide any feedback if possible? I'm kind of regret swapping out the original nano PC to MH light.........

Many thanks as usual.....

 

Almost forgot to mention that I've ordered Purigen and will use it in the sump soon. What's the best combination, GFO + carbon + Purigen or Chemi-pure elite + purigen or else?

 

in my 30 gallon i run chemi pure elite with high capacity carbon and im super overstocked..

in my 20 i run high capacity carbon and purigen..i have one orange spot goby

cant see any differences in either tanks..no algae no nothing..and im a super heavy feeder in my tanks..

 

No GFO at all on both tank? I would think chemi pure elite = carbon + GFO......?

Purigen seems to be worth the money since you can wash it with bleach and like new again. What do you think about it?

 

RODI removes more TDS than just RO – the over all benefit is dependent on your starting water quality.

I am not a fan of reducing photo period’s myself, unless you have an excessive time to begin with. If not you are masking an issue and not resolving it – just saying.

You are on target with your combination, Purigen, chemi-pure elite and I would suggest Rowaphos.

BTW, GFO (granulated Ferric Oxide) is in Chemi-pure elite

I suspect that you will resolve this soon. You said you were cutting back on the food (I suspect that you were over feeding) and then the proper mix of filter media will get you the rest of the way.

Get a better skimmer

 

The only issue I have with chemipure is that does not contain as much gfo as I would like. I also think it takes many weeks to see noticeable results with both purigen and chemipure. Since the tank is 6 months old, I would tend to think that all your phosphates and nitrates are bound up in the algae presently growing in your tank.

Cyano in my tanks usually responded the best to improvement in flow and surface agitation. GHA nutrient reduction and exporting. Sometimes you have to do something dramatic initially like manually removing as much as possible, black out and then small water changes through out that process.

The lighting should come up higher than 4 inches IMO. You are certain that it is indeed GHA and not bryopsis.