green slime on glass

Discussion in 'Algae' started by newtosalt, May 24, 2010.

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  1. newtosalt

    newtosalt Spaghetti Worm

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    so i clean it off every day i never had a problem with it till i bought a pure actinic bulb so the water checks out at all zeros wondering if 10 hrs is to much light should i turn the pA off sooner like i have 4x54 watt gisemenn they are 2 actinic + and 1 pure actinic and a fiji purple what kinda time should i run them on
     
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  3. steve wright

    steve wright Super Moderator

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    newtosalt

    10 hours per day does not seem excessive to me
    I run 4 x 14k T5s for 12 hours each day and 2 x 22K lamps for 14 hours

    my glass needs the magnet scraper every 4th day and a credit card for the hard to get to areas once per week

    is your tank getting any direct sunlight from a window in close proximity?

    your test may come back 0 but often this means the algaes are using up nutrients as quickly as they are being produced


    are you running a reactor with GFO or other phosphate removing resin in?
    or are you using a cannister filter with a phosphate removing resin in?

    if you work on reducing/ ensuring, the nutrients are as low as your test kits are telling you then your glass will go longer between the need for cleaning IME

    Steve
     
  4. GuitarMan89

    GuitarMan89 Giant Squid

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    Honestly, I don't think your problem is that bad. I clean my front glass almost daily. It's not really bad, but I get some spots that i clean up. I clean my back and sides about 1 a week. It's something that I just live with. No big deal if you have a magnetic glass cleaner.
     
  5. newtosalt

    newtosalt Spaghetti Worm

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    its not noticable green from the front view but if i look from the sides i can see it its not bad i have no phosphate remover except a sumb and a refugium
     
  6. tigermike74

    tigermike74 Panda Puffer

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    I have the same problem with my T5 lights. I had those lights over my nano and had a huge algae problem, both slimy stuff and GHA on my nano. I moved my 70W HQI to my nano and the algae has died off. Now my 20G tank that had no algae problem when I used the HQI now has the same algae problems that my nano did after putting the T5 over it. I'm not sure if it's the Current USA fixture/ballast that is underdriving the bulbs or what, but it's obviously the T5 that is causing the algae problems.