Hair algae

Discussion in 'Algae' started by keifer905, Jan 20, 2010.

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  1. keifer905

    keifer905 Peppermint Shrimp

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    I have had a 75 gal tank for 4 months and it is infested with hair algae ( and slimy pink stuff on the sand) and we are in terested in this blenny: Golden Sailfin Blenny Tonga (Atrosalarias fuscus) - Reef Hot Spot
    1) will this blenny eat hair algae
    2) I am currently feeding 1/6 mysis cube every morning and night (twice) to my tank and my tank has a tri color fairy wrasse, an engineer goby, a fire shrimp and a pepermint shrimp-- would i need to feed more when i get this guy (or less) How much? Thank you I was gonna get him any way
     
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  3. mikeHVAC

    mikeHVAC Spaghetti Worm

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    Slimy pink stuff could be cyano, you should post some pics
     
  4. keifer905

    keifer905 Peppermint Shrimp

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    okay but what about the stuff i asked
     
  5. missionsix

    missionsix Super Moderator Staff Member

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    JMO blennies shouldn't be bought for hair algae control. When I had my last reef, I would feed once a week sometimes ;D
     
  6. unclejed

    unclejed Whip-Lash Squid

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    Hello, welcome. Well here you go! I hope this will be a pleasant experience for you. Here is my mini essay that I have written for those just starting out. I hope it guides you and if you have any questions I/we are here to help.
    There are some who would tell you that once "the numbers" are all good the cycle is over and you are ready to go, I am not one of those. What many beginner (even some advanced) aquarium keepers are not (fully) aware of is that the full cycle takes at least 6-8 months. The reason being, mainly, is this is the time required to fully cultivate a total beneficial bacterial base and achieve a saturation of such. Also, allowing the tank to "season" and go through the inevitable mini-cycles and diatom blooms and get fully established is the key to a healthy and stable tank in the future. After you have added one or two fish, let the tank get established by light feeding and going through a moderate light cycle (6-8 hours) for the next 3 weeks. After that, add a few clean up critters (crabs and/or snails) and allow the tank to "catch up" to the added load (you may at this time add some live bacteria to help in this process) and give it another 2 weeks doing all your tests on a regular (weekly) basis and determine if the tank is stable.
    Too many don't exercise the proper patience and discipline at this early stage of getting their tank going only to have problems and head aches down the road. Once the tank has gone through the initial phase of the cycle period and the tank is stable, (about 2 mos.) then and only then, should you do your first water change. I always employed a
    bit of advice I got when I was starting out to add bacteria after each water change for the first and subsequent next 4-5 changes. After the first water change then and only then add to the tank and minimally at that. Another good tactic I learned is to add (whatever you are adding) a couple days after a water change. This gives the new creature fresh minerals and trace elements and a good 3-4 weeks (I adhere to 4-5 week
    intervals between changes) to adjust to the new water parameters, light, temp etc. before disrupting the tank for the next water change.

    I would explain more about Cyano and for that matter algae. The 2 main sources of food for both Cyano and "bad" algae are Nitrates and Phosphates. Too many aquarists focus on Nitrates when Phosphates are really more of a concern. The reason for this is because it is harder to eliminate Phosphate from the tank. We greatly limit Nitrates by employing methods such as protein skimmers, plants, denitrators etc. however Phosphates are introduced through food mainly, and water if not using a RO/DI unit, and we can't eliminate food or water. Since Phosphate is constantly getting in the tank, the only adequate method of elimination is a Phosphate reactor.
    Yesterday I was at my LFS and in a couple of their tanks they had a Cyano outbreak. What you must understand is, Cyano is a bacterial infection. To rid the tank of it, medication is required to eliminate it and the Phosphate reactor is required to prevent it and algae that use phosphate as their main source of food.
    I hope this helps you to understand better.
     
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  7. bama

    bama Humpback Whale

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    Wow, Im going to K+ for this..

    What meds help get rid of cyano?
     
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  9. keifer905

    keifer905 Peppermint Shrimp

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    thanks a lot but would that blenny be okay? would it eat any hair algae
     
  10. loneracer05

    loneracer05 Clown Trigger

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    i had a lawnmower blenny that didnt touch it but my midas blenny picks at it...any blenny is hit or miss but more then likely it will eat some but not enough to make a noticeable difference.manual removal is best i feel. it can be alot of work but i think it works
     
  11. keifer905

    keifer905 Peppermint Shrimp

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    things say that the atrosalarias fuscus will eat huge amounts of hair algae
     
  12. Night-Rida

    Night-Rida Finback Whale

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    yellow tang or sometype of tang should eat algae up.. IMHO