Hanna Checkers or Liquid Test?

I have a lot of doubts regarding the API test kits so I'm looking to upgrade.
I was wondering which is the better route to go down:
Salifert Test Kits?
or
Hanna Digital Checkers?
Is anyone on 3reef using the digital checkers?
How accurate are they?
Are the liquid kits more economical?

 

I think liquid kits are more economical. If you have the cash to spend then I think the Hanna are the way to go.

 

The prices are actually better than I thought they would be. But they are still more expensive than test kits.

Total Chlorine

 

Thanks for the replies. The liquid is a lot more economical but, are they as accurate?
Also, I will be purchasing a RKE in the near future. Prob in July or even sooner.
I believe there is a PO4 probe for the controller. Am I right?

 

I can tell you salifert makes API look like crap. But hanna is probably the best way to go if you want sps and have the money, it gives a accuracy looking at cards cant match.

I don't want you to take this as salifert, isn't good enough for sps because it is, perhaps not for systems that do the ULNS like zeovit but they work fine for measuring above 0.2 ppm(nitrate) and much lower for phosphate.


I use salis

 

What are you testing? Hanna checkers are good, I doubt more accurate than sailfert though, at least in most cases, but it depends on the test. The only things I regularly bother testing are ca, kh, PO4. Sometimes nitrate although I feel this is less useful, but do like to check it occasionally.
There is no ca checker. There is a Kh checker, I doubt it's much more accurate than Sailfert if any. Personally I am happy to use API for kh, just because I'm not particularly concerned about the precision. I like to keep my kh around 8, I don't need to know if it's 8.2, or 7.9, knowing it's between 8-9 is fine. Same thing for ca really.

For PO4, I don't usually bother testing, as the test kits just aren't accurate enough to give you any useful data. However, I bought the Hanna ultra low range phosphorous checker. Their phosphate checker is low range and not ultra-low range, so, the phosphate checker also is not accurate enough to be of use to me. The phosphrous checker, although you need to convert it manually to phosphate, is accurate to +/- .015ppm phosphate. This is accurate enough for me, so I have decided to use it. If you want real accurate though, you'd need to go with something like the Hatch which is pricey.

For nitrate, this is even less important to me. As long as it is nearly undetectable on an API kit, I'm happy. If you feel you need to know you are less than 5ppm, then the Salifert is a bit better. Really to get very accurate readings under 5ppm or so though, you'd need to go with something like the Hatch test kit, this is about 10x the price.

 

Ok well the Hatch test kits look way too complicated.
I want t0 test PO4, NO3 and kH mainly.
For instance, yesterday, my API kH tested at 9dkH and today tested at 5. So i really don't know which one to believe.
I'm really counting on a very reliable test kit due to my PO4 outbreak last yr that wiped out all of my corals.
I am starting back with SPS. So far so good.
All SPS showing great polyp extension except one.
Will post pics as soon as I get my hands on a "real" camera.

The minute differences in the test results are not that important to me but I do want to make sure this time around that my PO4 and kH is up to standard.
For now, I'm dosing C-Balance part A and B.
I have my Ca reactor already but I'm awaiting a CO2 tank.
For some reason, in Trinidad our gas companies no longer refill aluminium tanks so I have to bite the bullet and buy a heavy steel tank that is way over my budget for now.

My nitrate levels with the API kit seems to be fluctuating also, one day, I see 0 and then tomorrow I see between 5 and 10. I really can'y tell the difference between the two colours.

I'm counting on the RKE (when I acquire it) to plug in some probes and always be in the know about what's going on with my tank.

The salifert seems to be the majority decision so I may go with that but BRS is currently out of stock of the PO4 and NO3.

I'm also runing rowa phos 24/7 in a reactor as a precautionary measure.
Same results: yesterday, 0 PO4 and today it's showing what seems like .5 PO4 with API.
I have just invested another couple thousands of TT dollars in my tank and don't wanna see it die again so the reliability of test kits is my number one priority at the moment.

 

try aquacave

 

wow, in the 9+ years I've been using API kits I've never seen swings like that. Occasionally I may see a 1dkh swing between test. usually if I'm careful to get constitient drops and shake well between drops it is consistent though. I'd guess you are doing something inconsistently, or you are getting bad kits. One thing I have found is if the dropper touches the glass when adding a drop, it tends to pull out more than a drop and I can get big differences. The Salifert is great though, I have used them and they are probably more accurate. I haven't necessarily found them to be more consistent though, but they do tend to be more complicated.

For PO4 though, you want to keep your reef at <.03ppm. Except for the the Hanna phosphourous checker, or the hatch, there really isn't anything I'm aware of that is accurate that low. At least without spending big money. Even the $200 Hanna phosphate photometer is only accurate to +/- .04. It is useful if you want to know if your way high, but algae is also good at telling you that.