Help figuring out the nest on my RO/DI unit I just bought used

Discussion in 'New To The Hobby' started by zesty, Jun 19, 2013.

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  1. zesty

    zesty Sailfin Tang

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    Hi everyone! I bought a used RO/DI BFS-160. I'm pretty clear on the whole in/out/drain part.

    Here are the pictures of the unit. It has a flush valve from the RO membrane, but I'm not clear on exactly what that is needed for.

    Here are the pictures, BFS-160

    ok, this is how I received the unit. The blue is actually hooked up to the in, the yellow is (assuming) the waste and the clear is the clean ro/di water.

    The part I am not seeing is what is that large circular connection with the two lines in and two lines out? One of the lines leads to a ball valve that I have no idea what is going on?? Anything else that I should know about on this bad boy?

    Anyone have some beginner advice? I tried looking at BFS for instructions, but it was the basics, hook up to cold, waste and ro/di water...

    Thanks!
    Matt
     
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  3. pgoodsell

    pgoodsell Horrid Stonefish

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    I think thats for the flush kit. you open it to flush it.
     
  4. zesty

    zesty Sailfin Tang

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    Sometimes the most simplest answer is the one most often overlooked. :bulb2:

    Doh, thanks!!
     
  5. pgoodsell

    pgoodsell Horrid Stonefish

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    Do you know how old the filters are and do you have a tds meter?
     
  6. Mpfaff77

    Mpfaff77 Plankton

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    That does look little odd with the T connection off the membrane.

    The flush valve is to flush the membrane occasionally. I have my on constant run and makes water 24/7 because it goes to my ice make and sink. So I only flush every few weeks or a month. But if you turn on each time you make water and membrane is filled with stagnant water you should flush for few minutes each time before use.

    Ill try to snap few pics on my filter guys RODI setup. Maybe you can get idea of how lines are ran.
     
  7. Mpfaff77

    Mpfaff77 Plankton

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    Ok I hope this helps you figure out your system.

    Clear line comes from last carbon block after the supply line goes thru the first 3 stages of RO. That line goes into the Auto Shut Off valve(ASO, circular thing with screws). Then that line comes out of ASO valve then into top of membrane.

    Black line comes out of off set bottom outlet of membrane which is waste line and goes into Y with flow restrictor and flush valve. That flush valve should stay closed unless your flushing membrane.

    Blue Line comes from center bottom valve on the membrane. That is clean RO water thru the ASO valve the into your DI canister but in your case doesn't look like you have DI. So that is your finish product RO water.

    I also agree with the last post. You should absolutely get TDS meter. Dual tds would be ideal so you can read you incoming and outgoing water. Pressure gauge is also recommended because you need certain psi in order for the ASO valve to engage if your using a float valve to fill holding tanks.

    Hope this helps.
     

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  9. zesty

    zesty Sailfin Tang

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    Great info! Thanks! I'm going to get a dual tds meter to go in here as well
     
  10. AZDesertRat

    AZDesertRat Giant Squid

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    Contact Russ at Buckeye Field Supply. He is excellent to deal with and will walk you through everything step by step to get it correct. He also has diagrams on his website at www.buckeyefieldsupply.com that will show everything you need. If thesystem has clear tubing someone has modified it, usually the blue is treated water, red or black is tap water and yellow is the waste line on most good systems.

    I would highly recommend skipping the dual inline TDS meter and get the handheld meter the system comes with instead. It is much more versatile andaccurate and does not limit you to two TDS readings when you need three TDS readings to troubleshoot the system, tap water, RO only and final RO/DI TDS are all required measurements.