Hospital tank Questions

hey i've just finished setting up my hospital tank. Never used one or setup one up so does this look ok?? i got a 10G with an aquaclear30 filter with the carbon removed. a little 10G heater. No substrate, i put two unused coffee cups in the tank that are black so they have a place to hide and feel safe. My salinity i 1.020 and temp at 79. made fresh water with RO/DI and drip acclimated all my livestock for a few hours to get them use to the hospital tank salinity. My DT has an outbreak of ICH and more recently its become ICH with VELVET. I already lost my powder brown tang, so i acted as quick as i could before i lost them all. They are all in the hospital tank now with the exception of my yellow wrasse that i've given up trying to catch....he's so fast and burries into the sand. i ripped out all the LR i had except two pieces that each have an anemone on them. still couldn't catch the bugger. He's also is the only fish i have that doens't seem to be affected or atleast not yet. clear of ich and velvet so maybe he's immune. should i just leave him or still try to catch ??? I need to know a feeding regimen for the hospital tank. in it are my foxface, mated pair of percula's and a blue damsel. do i feed daily, twice a day?? i'm feeding them with omega one natural protien formula. its a flake thats high in omega 3 & 6 and HUFA'S. also since i treated the hospital with the correct doseage for a 10G of coppersafe (aprox 12.5ml dosage) am i good for awhile? says treats tank for a month? should i be doing small water changes and doseing the water change water or just change it if my params get outta whack??? i've also wrapped the hospital tank with a garbage bag to make it as dark as possible...hope it keeps their stress levels down. is there anything im doing wrong? anything i should change?

 

Ich goes much better with satin, or crushed silk.

....sorry, bored at work.

 

sounds good on the water side of things. That's a pretty heavy bio load for a 10g tank, might want to up it to a 20... add an air stone as well.

Deff get the wrasse out as the ich will never go away if it has a host fish. many fish are very hardy and may not show ich, but it can be in them...

You have to let your tank sit fish-free for at least 4-5 weeks for the ich and other parasites to cycle through and die off. LFS suggests 6 weeks fallow. the parasites cannot breed/live without a host, but their larval stage can live a while.

With the copper, follow the directions the medication came with on dosing, it can be very toxic if over applied.

Also, what about the clown goby and pair of mandarins? Will they take prepared food? With copper pods wont survive in the hospital tank.

As for feeding, don't over do it. once a day should be plenty. Only as much as they'll eat in 3-4 minutes.

Regular water changes are also good, especially consiedring the high bioload. 10-15% a week probably. Check the water quality daily or every other day for nitrates/nitrites...

good luck with the QT, hope everyone makes it.

 

sorry to hear. sounds like your doing as much as can be done. 10g does seem a little small but i think you will be ok, agreed with weekly wc. maybe add some pvs pipes for more hiding. try to get the wrasse out but he is harder host for ich bc of his skin/scales.

using garlic with food?

UVS by any chance?

 

i do soak food in garlic...about once a week. i don't have a uv sterilzer. i'm not sure now how to get my wrasse out. he hasn't unburried himself yet since the inital try. I hope he's ok. My clown goby is nowhere to be found....after ripping my reef apart i still didn't find any trace of him. Similar story for the mandrins

 

I did the same as you last weekend. Took me 1.5 days to catch my 6-line wrasse. I was out of town through the worst of the ich outbreak. Lost everything except my wrasse. As hard as they are to catch, unfortunately they have to be removed to get the ich out of the DT. That's what I've read and what I'm doing by anyway.