Images of RBTA spliting/cloning

Beautiful color on your RBTA's. Do yours still get bulbous on the ends? I had a green one and once our maroons took to it, it stopped getting the bulbs on the end. Do you know if that is the norm?

 

Hey thanks for looking.

There is a lot of theories regarding what makes them loose them and vice versa.

I have ones that were right next to each other under exact same conditions with regard to feedings, age..... and one would have the bubble tips and one would not.

Honestly I have no factual or theoretical evidence to address what does and does not cause it.

You can kinda of see what I am referring to in this picture, the one at the top at that moment had to bubble tips.



I will say BTA's that are on the decline from lack of sufficent lighting or supplemental feedings tend to not display the bubble tips as often.

 

Those are some very nice BTA's. Have you ever had a problem with the wandering and stinging your other corals? I notice you have a nice collection of other corals in there with them.

 

Thank you anpgp.

Once they settle into a place they tend to move very little if all remains the same, lighting flow......

Close observation seems to work in my favor as well. They will move back into a shadier place before cloning usually, but not far.

I also try to make sure that no that can really sting is touching. The soft coral really was never bothered by the BTA but the brain and froqspawn would show immediate stress.

 

That is a beautiful tank! In your opinion, would 250 watt metal halides be enough light to support BTA's for a 265 that is 2 feet deep? I was originally thinking I would need 400 watts, but a few other 3reefers suggested 250's would be sufficient. Do any of your clowns call your RBTA's home? If so, do you think that has any ill effects on the RBTA? We have a pair of rather large maroon clowns and it seemed like they suffocated their BTA and eventually rubbed it raw so to speak. A few of the tentacles actually become nubs!

 

Thank you!

Those BTA's are only under PC lighting, the bulbs are changed every 6 months.

Metal halid of 250 w would surely be enough and would probably keep them lower in the tank. Under 150 w in my other tank they stayed to the lower to mid portion.

Maroon clowns will do that. The best thing is to get a fairly large BTA or let one grow out before the clowns are introduced.

The only pair of my clownfish that do not call an anemone home are my pair of B/W misbars. Never showed any interest in any corals or anemones.

 

Hey Corailline,
I just got a Rose BTA three days ago. After the first night I found it in a deep crevice in my rock. It's still exposed to light..somewhat but it goes against what I thought it needed-high lighting, moderate flow. I expected it to move, just not in there. Last two days it's been in the same spot. Tips are bubbled so it looks ok. What are your thoughts?

 

My guess the anemone is just acclimating to the lighting. BTAs and Condys can do just fine under lighting that is less intense than the lighting needed for some of the larger anemones, carpets, magnifica......

The fact that is has remained in the same spots is a good sign. I imaging it will start to move out of the crevice given sometime.

Congradulations on your new RBTA they are a wonderful addition.
As long as it is fully inflating and maintains it coloration is should be fine.

BTA's often clone after introduction to a system, so do not be surprised if you shortly end up with two.

 

newb question - What does RBTA stand for

 

rose bubble tip anenome... and dont worry thats why there are forrums