Is this RO unit good enough?

You can get them at any local hardware store for $160 would it be safe to use on a 50/50 reef/fish tank

http://www.geappliances.com/smartwater/model_fs.htm?GXRM10GBL

 

Haven't got mine hooked up yet so my experience with them is limited. But can tell you they are rated by so many gallons per hour of water production. For example mine is rated to produce 90 gallons or so per day which is plenty for my case. I've got a fiberglass 50 gallon drum all set to collect the water. But this one you're showing has only a 4 gallon storage? I don't think it would be of much use unless you're running a small nano tank. So check the gallon rate production and make sure it holds enough water to cover your water changes and top offs.

 

I had this exact same RO unit. I've since upgraded to the Air Water and Ice Typhoon III. The only complaint I would have with this one is how slow it makes water, no DI unit, and filters are hard to find. You'll spend $90-$100 every time you need to change out the filters.

The typhoon III is only $40 more and includes the DI chamber, a TDS meter, and is much more efficient.

 

I don't think the storage capacity is a big concern, you can just use another container. 10gal a day is a little slow, but it really depends on how many gallons you will use any given day/week. The percentages are a little low for TDS and Ammonium, and nitrate at only 80%, you really want that at 99-100%. I got my Ro unit from Air,water,ice for only $100. It is 50 gal/day, has DI unit and is specifically meant for reef tanks. As an example, my tap water nitrate level is 20ppm, it is now 0ppm. It is called the might mite if you are interested.

 

The percentages are a little low for TDS and Ammonium, and nitrate at only 80%, you really want that at 99-100%

This is because of the filter membrane right? If I buy a better membrane it should filter better?

 

yes and no, even the best membranes only filter out about 95-98%, it could even be lower or higher, it really depends on what you TDS is in the tap water. To get the TDS done to 0ppm, most Ro units for reefs come with a DI unit attached., you can also buy this separately and add it on.

 

Got a link to a good site for one?

 

Reefkeepers

I went with the typhoon III also. It has a free automatic shutoff valve, lifetime guarantee, standard filters. You can buy a float valve that works in conjunction with the automatic shutoff valve from them for $13. That way you can build an automatic top off system easily.

It also come with the free TDS meter. I forgot why , but someone said stay with the 75GPD and under. The price for the 100GPD is the same as the 75GPD.

 

It depends on what your willing to spend. An R/O DI unit is one of those pieces of equipment that you should not go cheap. If your bank account allows you, I would recommend this one;

But if you cant, try to get one that has the most stages( 5-6 ) to include a DI cartridge. Luna

 

The lower the production rate, the higher the rejection rate. Mathematically, this equates to purer water. The more tap water your RO membrane rejects, the higher is the quality of your product water.

The downside to the above includes slower manufacture rate, and more water utilized in all (more than 3 gallons is disposed of for every one gallon of water produced.)

Like much in life, a one experiences a tradeoff here.