Issue with RKL PC4 channels 2 & 3 solved

I thought I would pass along a solution to a problem I've been having with my controller in hopes it will help someone else. I'm sure some of you know this but, others may not.

I recently added 2 dosers to my RKL controller. I remembered from past attempts trying to set up 2 power heads on a wavemaker mode that channels 2 & 3 on the PC4 were unreliable. Mostly they would stick in the on position even though the channels were powered off. When I added the dosers I had to move my cooling fan from channel 1 to 2. I then ran into the issue of sticking on again.

The fix that I found after researching DA's website was to add an extra load to the problem channel. They said that channels 1 & 4 used mechanical relays while 2 & 3 use solid state relays.

This is what I added. Woods 8" 16/3 SPT-2 Adapter Cord, White, 3pk: Electrical : Walmart.com
So far so good. The fan cycles like it should now. Hope this helps.

My set-up as of now is this.
1 Alk doser
2 cooling fan
3 heater
4 Calcium doser

 

This is a strange issue. I just installed my RKL last night and put my dosing pumps on 2 and 3 and tested off and on for about 2 hours and they never stuck. I heard if they are going to stick on, it will be a regular thing. Maybe the brs 1.1 ml/min dosing pumps have a heavier load?

 

IDK exactly what works and what doesn't but I didn't wanna take any chances on my first try using dosers. haha I know I had issuses with my koralias and the 6" fan on 2 & 3. Maybe others have more/better info on this?
BTW my heater has been working fine on #3 for a year now.

 

I would like to put my heater's on 2 and 3 but they pull 3.6 amps. the outlets are only rated at 3.....

 

Ya look at my gahh major vodka overdose thread. got stuck on CH 2. I don't think I would buy RKL again or recommend one. I find it ridiculous.

Im scared that my heaters on CH3 will stick on, but thats about 1000 watts when on, im hoping no. Havnt looked at the amp draw.

 

RKL has worked great for me. Checkout their forums, it will give you all the information you need. They do have some drawbacks but just plug in your lower current items in the correct ports on the PC4 and you shouldnt have any issues.

Regarding heater's, just sent up some alarms for a certain temp above or below. I keep my temp at a steady 80.5 with a 1 degree fluctuation at most. If it goes above 82 or below 78 alarms go off. Additionally, set the max temp manually on teh heater to 84. That way its a secondary backup.

Just my 2 cents.

 

Been there. Don't you think that's "need to know" information right out of the box? Even when you buy it, nowhere does it say the power channels are different 8 amp and 3 amp until you receive it.

 

Sorry to hear of your troubles, it can be frustrating sometimes.
FWIW I've heard that Apex units also have a mix solid state and mechanical relays also? Maybe someone can explain why this is needed.

 

BTW I'm not bashing either of the manufacturers. I'm more that satisfied now that I've got my problem fixed.

 

Ill try your fix. Still frustrated though. I guess it's not bad for the price.