KH off the charts....help!!!

I finally got a reef test kit and tested my KH....it was off the charts. It took 32 drops so I guess that means I have a dKh of 32. I then went ahead and tested my tap water......it was 30. I always use Prime to condition my tap water before mix salt and using it in my tank. Does this mean it is time to shell out the money for an RO/DI unit and start chaning the water out or would that even help? Sorry I know very little about RO/DI units.

Also my ph 8.0 in my tank. I am afraid to increase it because the buffer I have also raises Alk. Do I wait till I get my Alk down before raising ph?

Other parm.

Cal - 480
Nitrite - 0
Nitrate - 1.0
Ammonia - 0
Salinity. 1.024
Phosphate - 2.0

I use the API master test kit and the reef test kits. My magnesium test kit is on the way...just not here yet. Thanks in advance for all the help!!!

 

First of all, ditch the tap water. With parameters like that it's going to cause some problems. Start using some RO/DI for your top offs and water changes.

Do you dose at all? You're Calcium is also pretty high. If you were to just let it run it's course, they should both start to come down. You may need to add a little bit of calcium as both level start to fall. I'll attach the article that I get a lot of information from.

http://www.advancedaquarist.com/issues/nov2002/chem.htm

 

Regardless, RO/DI definitely is the best option and would be a good idea to look into. They aren't difficult to use and aren't really all that expensive in terms of what most people end up spending on their tanks and livestock.

I don't know if it's possible to actually have a dkh of 31 in natural saltwater, maybe there's something in your tap water that is interfering with the test and causing false high readings. I would think you would start seeing calcium carbonate precipitate out of the water long before getting the dkh that high through normal means. Maybe I'm wrong though.

 

I'm guessing the reading is closer to 18 dKH if you are using API test kits. Make sure you mix after each drop. Get the RO/DI unit who knows what other nasty surprises it has in it.

 

Or if you can't actually afford an RO/DI unit at present, a lot of LFS stores as well as some grocery stores will sell RO/DI water, that's what I normally do.

 

Nope, you're right. There would be a carbonate snowstorm and white precipitate would be all over the rocks and the sandbed.

I don't know what's wrong (bad test kit, not shaking after each drop, not shaking the reagent bottle prior to doing the test, something else in the tapwater). However, I do know that you can't have Ca at 480 and 31 dKH at the same time.

 

Just rechecked KH again. Shook after each drop. Still got 30. Now when I bought the test kit I ordered it from dr. fosters and smith. When the kit came, some of the bottles were frozen. I think it was like 5 degrees out at the time. Would that cause the tests to be bad? There is no calcium participate that I can see.

Also is the RO/DI plus system from bulk reef supply the way to go?

 

I would try another test kit had the same problem with my API kh kit. If it was that high i would think you ph would be alot higher ? The BRS ro/di unit is very good i think alot of the units are good as long as you check your ppm and stay on top of filter changes. Good luck .

 

I don't have a clue. You would likely need to email the manufacturer

Spectrapure, and Air, Water, Ice units are excellent as well

 

My first thought was, yes, freezing may have affected the kit but you should call them to be sure.

Many of us got our RO/DI units from here; RO/DI Systems But they are all comparable to each other. Filter Guys are a little cheaper. I have the 5 stage (2nd down in the site).

Have LFS check your water.