Lighting dilemna! HELP!

Discussion in 'Reef Lighting' started by rickzter, Feb 4, 2006.

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  1. Jason McKenzie

    Jason McKenzie Super Moderator

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    I would actually go for the 15K MX and run you PCs full actinic.

    I would consiter when you need to to drop the MH to 10K and stick with the Actinics.

    J
     
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  3. rickzter

    rickzter Torch Coral

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    I went to the XM site and read up on the 175w bulbs, it stated that the 10000K is a crisp white which simulates sunlight at shallow depths.

    The 15000K simulates medium depths of coral reefs, adding a crisp blue light.

    The 20000K simulates deep sea coral reefs and is extremely blue as they also add that you dont need actinic supplementation.

    I think the 20000K is out of the question, huh?

    Another quandary, should I go dual 28w or dual 55w PC's? Based on the info. above should I go dual actinic? Or 50/50 or just 1 actinic, one 10K?

    I'm trying to replicate "natural" sea lighting, I know it wont be 100% the same, but I want it to be as close as possible to the natural look. I want the halide to replicate sun rays and the added natural blue light.
     
  4. Diver_1298

    Diver_1298 Eyelash Blennie

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    Put the metal halide in that you want, then add blue or daylight bulbs as required for your taste ;)

    Jim
     
  5. rickzter

    rickzter Torch Coral

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    Yeah, I'm getting the halide first, situating it right in the center then I'll add the PC's depending on where I want to go from there.